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Roman Patrick Will Bryan Jules Ice-climbing team

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BLUE LAKE 2006

Ice Climbing Impressions...

It all seemed too good to be true. Looking up from beneath the curtain of ice was needless to say, inspiring and a little daunting. After a solid hour's warm-up of shovelling snow for the level platforms on which to stand the nerves had been pretty much put to rest.

Everything seemed new. From the simple task of how to strap on crampons, to how to use an ice axe for different tasks, I felt like I was constantly taking things in, all the whilst trying to take in the views and what lay ahead. But when the moment arrived and you got to flick your wrist and feel the ice axe tip sink with that satisfying 'thuck' into the ice it was full steam ahead.

You wanted more and more and more. And that's what it seemed like we got. A whole afternoon of passing time on a slab of bluey green ice. Sometimes all you had in your head was 'technique', other times it was the sheer brilliance of the moment and towards the end of the day, the pump was all you had space in your head for.

Without a doubt I'll be back. Here's cheers to ice on the rocks! - Jules Trudeau - 4 Sep.2006 -

         This year’s annual Blue Lake trip was originally planned to take place from the Thursday the 13th of July to Monday the 17th of July but was postponed due to bad weather reports to the following weekend. This time a team of 5 people including Bryan, Jules, Patrick, Will and Roman left for Blue Lake from Thursday the 20th of July to Monday the 24th of July. We took off from Will’s house in Sydney at 14:00PM on Thursday the 20th of July and arrived at the local pup in Dalgety (about 30 minute drive from Jindabyne) at about 20:30PM. After renting gear for Jules from Paddy Palint at Nuggets Crossing at 7:30AM the next morning we arrived at about 8:30AM at Guthega to start our trip. Since we had backed our bags the previous night at the pub, preparations went very smooth and we started our trip for Blue Lake at 9:52AM sharp. There was almost no snow around Guthega and we had to carry our gear all the way to the Snowy River Bridge (just over one hour) and beyond until about the third tree line above the bridge. Most parties arrived after 4 hours at the mouth of Blue Lake at around about 14:00PM. Setting up 3 camps in reasonably deep snow (Bryan/Will, Patrick/Roman, Jules) took over one hour but left enough time to go for a little exploration of the conditions around the Lake. There was plenty of snow and lots of ice falls with a particularly prominent ice-wall high above the Lake to the North after gully number three. Conditions were warmer than usual and there was absolutely no wind with cloudy skies. Water was available from the mouth of the lake even though the lake was frozen solid. Day one ended with a warm meal prepared outside the tents and expectations for the adventures of the next day.

         The choice for day one was clear – the dominant main icefall to the North high above the lake. After a leisurely breakfast we geared up for ice-climbing and set out along the lakes rim to reach the access point for the ice-fall up high. We got into our harnesses in gully number 5 and started free-climbing the steep snow slope below a crux rock band, which would lead to the final snow field below the icefalls. We decided to free-climb this section with ice-axes only and the short rock traverse wasn’t as dangerous as we thought. The snow-field wasn’t too steep and after a short climb we arrived at what amounted to this season’s most conspicuous ice-fall at Blue Lake. A well formed continues and solid ice wall between 60 and 80 degrees about 10 to 15 metres long. After building anchor points and digging out massive belay ledges Roman led one pitch of beautiful ice to establish the first top-rope. Climbing was relatively easy on compact ice and top rope ice-screws were sufficient for the anchors. Bryan and Patrick established top-rope number two with a selection of friends at the right of the steeper section of the ice-fall. After the top-ropes were set up we basically took turns climbing steep ice all day long. Particular accolades go to Jules who lost his ice-climbing virginity and continued to cruise all day long. After a long and tiring climbing day we retreated to camp by traversing around the dangerous rock spur up high, descending prominent gully number five instead. Day number two ended with freeze-dried dinner, a casket of red-wine carried laboriously by Will and a secret stash of chocolate provided by Jules. Campsite

         I should note at this point that special thanks should go to Patrick our cinematographer who lugged a vide-camera up the mountain as well as Bryan who carried photographic equipment to record all the team’s adventures.

         Day number three dawned with patchy but windless skies and relatively warm morning temperatures. After breakfast we split into two groups. Bryan, Will and Jules set out cross-country skiing towards Watson’s Crag and Patrick and Roman climbed Couloir Number 2 at Blue Lake. Conditions at Blue Lake were perfect for mountaineering – no wind and patchy skies. After gearing up at the steep entrance to Couloir no.2 we climbed the snow-slope to the 5 metre-wide entrance of the gully. Although we brought ice-climbing gear, ropes and belaying devices we free-climbed the ever steepening and narrowing ramp without setting up belay points. The snow was firm and iced-over so ice-axes and crampons worked particularly well. We climbed with skies on our packs and the extra weight meant that the steeper part of the gully felt very treacherous. The Couloir topped out at a huge steep snow cornice with commanding views of the lake below. We took some pictures and before joining our team-mates on the trip to Watson’s Crag, Patrick skied down the ice Couloir number 1. We dumped our climbing gear at Blue Lake and caught up with the second team to head for Watson’s Crag. The approach took about two hours and we chose an approach that circumvented the deep trough behind Blue Lake. After a quick lunch we checked out Watson’s Crag but decided that it was time to turn-around because the weather looked very suspicious. Taking a shorter direct line to return to Blue Lake we ended up downhill skiing the perfect deep trough behind the lake in excellent snow conditions. That night we arrived somewhat early at camp around 16:30PM and enjoyed the last hour of sunshine with snacks at our camp-site.

 Snowgum        

        Day four started early at 6:00AM with white-out slowly creeping up on our base camp from Little Twainam. After a scrumptious breakfast of chocolate-coffee and muesli we broke camp and where ready to leave Blue Lake just before 9:00AM. Conditions worsened as we descended up the steep slopes trying to stay high. Navigation became increasingly difficult and finding the proper way was tricky indeed. However due to good snow conditions we traveled relatively fast and skied as close as possible to the bridge across the Snowy River, even though there was very little snow above the slopes of the river. After a short lunch around 11:00AM we walked the last stretch to Guthega in a blistering pace set by Will. It took only one hour to get back to Guthega with very heavy packs. Once we loaded the car, returned the gear to Nuggets Crossing and dropped Bryan off at the snow-tube we got ready for the long drive home.

Roman 28 July 2006

 
 
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