Following our first trip to Jolls Bridge early 2000 it took some two decades to return. 2021 marked a renaissance and added several trips to this multi-disciplinary crag. Here is is a brief description of a recent trip to a small subsection called: Wall of Thighs. Pretty comfortable with finding everything on the Lower Cliffline at Jolls now, after several days of exploration under my belt following a hiatus of some 20 years after my first trip. So it was time to mix it up and look at the Upper cliffline for some new areas. The hand-drawn maps on the sydney climbing website are excellent help:
Will and I went to the "Wall of Thighs" area making up comprised a secluded distinct high cliffline and an excellent sporting craglet in its own right set a little apart from the main Lower Area at the very top tier of Jolls. Cross the fence From the car park and follow the fence line atop the cliff north for approximately 250m. Until you run into a large boulder. Scirt around on the left and bush bash along the bouldery cliff line for about 100meters and you end up at the same level as the Thighs cliff line. It is a little confusin since you are at the top of the cliffline at the car park but this hidden cliff is actully higher up still so you need to go North and uphill Do not follow the disctiption on the Crag and descent down the Ten Pin Gulled trying to skirt around from the bottom, via the Crack 'n Up Wall, it would take all day and you will never find it. The Wall is compact and has about 10 sport climbing routes all are hard for the grade with ring bolts and excellent anchors and lower offs. One anchor is enough for top-roping multible routes so it is also great for pratising the harder routes on top-rope.
1) Funk soul mother (22***) funky low crux dyno from good holds to full extension and catch a good edge. then steady longish moves with hard footplacements. This is the easiest sport route on the wall apart from the cracks.
2) Sun King Baby (22***) initialled with SKB and much harder than Funk Soul Mother. Low traverse crux on crimpy pockets to big scoop with kneebar rest. High crux move to pinch rail and cruisy to top. At least 23 I would say but 24 comes to mind.
3) The Link experience (26***) much harder now with a classic move from an ironstone pocket rail to a high sloper. then Hard pocket to below the crack. Impossible sloper to move into the crack. Probably a lot harder now.
4) Sister Moon (24**) The line of U-bolts just right of the crack. Amazing looking orange face with good pockets and high reaches on the lower half. Then a blank looking section with micro crimps that is incredibly hard. Guide says to avoid crack on the left but I tried with feet stemming on the other side and using the round side of the left side still absolutely nails. Maybe 24 if you use your feet stemming and holds on the rounded arete of the crack but without it much much harder. At least 25 but possible more compared to the Sport Wall's 25s for example.
Great little sport crag that dishes out lashings of humbling. Prepare to be flogged on grades that you would normally flash and smile. Really enjoyed the quiet secluded atmosphere well away from the crowds. Jolls has a lot of areas to offer and many different styles. Pick a style for each day: sport, trad or longish multi and you will have oodles of fun.
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| Benny Hills Buttocks 17** |
Will Hawksbury |
Piggy Grunter 18*** |
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