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Wave Wall 2007

 

Wave Wall The forecast was abysmal but Gary and I had already booked our monthly trip and there was no way we would let a "little' bad weather deter us. Initially we planned to complete a multi-pitch double, linking "Bladderhosen" with the adjacent "Church of the seven Samurai" at Pierces Pass but that will have to wait for another day without waterfalls gushing down around us. We woke up Friday (9 March 2007) morning to fog and light drizzle in Sydney and decided to hit Katoomba and wait for better weather. Watching the horrendous traffic flow into downtown Sydney we felt footloose and carefree - what a great day to be going to the mountains. We arrived in a foggy and wet Katoomba at about 8:30AM and thought that a "quick" stop at the local coffee shop was a good idea. We had breakfast number two and a few coffees later decided that we perhaps should do some climbing! Even though it wasn't raining it was quite cold and very foggy so Wave wall at Centennial Glen with its steep orientation was an obvious choice. We decided to look for a little warm-up at Upper Shipley but the cliff was dripping with the occasional dry spot in between wet patches. Since all the easy stuff was wet the overhanging and aptly named "Weak as I am" (22) would have to do for a warm-up. I started up the wet totem pole to get to the first draw and dove through the shower curtain separating Gary and me. I basically was pumped on bolt number one and things got worse at every bolt. I definitely set a new record for the most hangs on a single climb. I am sure there were about 13 draws and I had about 20 rests, it least I can claim some sort of record! Gary did much better but the "warm-up" also got the better of him and we decided to leave this disaster area and had to the much drier Wave Wall.
The waterfalls at the Glen and Porters pass were doing overtime today and everything to drown in water. On our way past the Glen we noticed a few more hard men braving the weather. There was Chris from Newcastle and Roberto from Bogota getting pumped stupid on "Better than Chocolate". Wave Wall was our Isle in the rain - complete dry and horrendously steep. Another quick 2 laps on the steep and only warm-up “Jaws” (21) got us fighting fit. Then it was business time and since the classic “SplitWave” (23) was dripping wet, I headed up the balancy "Jaqueline Hyde"(24) for some serious action. The business of this route is a sloppy traverse at the start of the climb which leads to a tricky roof crossing. Gary and I were both firing from all cylinders and flashed the route, with poor Roberto and Chris, who had done all the hard work and but the draws on watching with dismay. Wang, bang thank you guys, next....
Actually it all went pear-shaped from then on. Getting a bit cocky from our early success we bit of more than we could chew and started up "Smoked Mussels"(25). Once again the draws were in place but this time it was all go from the first move. A hideous lock-off on two crimpers spat me of low on the route. I did okay on the next few moves until the dyno finish: from two slopers to a razor blade jug - what can I say autsch, sayonara and game over. Gary's turn: high step with your left foot and into a contorting double left hand gaston - autsch and the tendon was still sore three days
later. Gee its good to get past 40 in one piece.....
Almost time to finish now since Will's bucks night was looming large. I had a little bit of juice left in me - or so I thought - and my old friend “Rubber Lover” (25) deserved another try. Of I went feeling much heavier on the first three-quarters of the route clocking in at 22 until you reach the "sloping-jug" before the crux. I was very tired by the time I hit the crux crimpers of the final boulder problem and that's exactly were the story ended.
We will be back .......

Roman 12 March 2007

 
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