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Wave Wall 2007
The
forecast was abysmal but Gary and I had already booked our
monthly trip and there was no way we would let a "little'
bad weather deter us. Initially we planned to complete a multi-pitch
double, linking "Bladderhosen" with the adjacent
"Church of the seven Samurai" at Pierces Pass but
that will have to wait for another day without waterfalls
gushing down around us. We woke up Friday (9 March 2007) morning
to fog and light drizzle in Sydney and decided to hit Katoomba
and wait for better weather. Watching the horrendous traffic
flow into downtown Sydney we felt footloose and carefree -
what a great day to be going to the mountains. We arrived
in a foggy and wet Katoomba at about 8:30AM and thought that
a "quick" stop at the local coffee shop was a good
idea. We had breakfast number two and a few coffees later
decided that we perhaps should do some climbing! Even though
it wasn't raining it was quite cold and very foggy so Wave
wall at Centennial Glen with its steep orientation was an
obvious choice. We decided to look for a little warm-up at
Upper Shipley but the cliff was dripping with the occasional
dry spot in between wet patches. Since all the easy stuff
was wet the overhanging and aptly named "Weak as I am"
(22) would have to do for a warm-up. I started up the wet
totem pole to get to the first draw and dove through the shower
curtain separating Gary and me. I basically was pumped on
bolt number one and things got worse at every bolt. I definitely
set a new record for the most hangs on a single climb. I am
sure there were about 13 draws and I had about 20 rests, it
least I can claim some sort of record! Gary did much better
but the "warm-up" also got the better of him and
we decided to leave this disaster area and had to the much
drier Wave Wall.
The waterfalls at the Glen and Porters pass were doing overtime
today and everything to drown in water. On our way past the
Glen we noticed a few more hard men braving the weather. There
was Chris from Newcastle and Roberto from Bogota getting pumped
stupid on "Better than Chocolate". Wave Wall was
our Isle in the rain - complete dry and horrendously steep.
Another quick 2 laps on the steep and only warm-up “Jaws”
(21) got us fighting fit. Then it was business time and since
the classic “SplitWave” (23) was dripping wet,
I headed up the balancy "Jaqueline Hyde"(24) for
some serious action. The business of this route is a sloppy
traverse at the start of the climb which leads to a tricky
roof crossing. Gary and I were both firing from all cylinders
and flashed the route, with poor Roberto and Chris, who had
done all the hard work and but the draws on watching with
dismay. Wang, bang thank you guys, next....
Actually it all went pear-shaped from then on. Getting a bit
cocky from our early success we bit of more than we could
chew and started up "Smoked Mussels"(25). Once again
the draws were in place but this time it was all go from the
first move. A hideous lock-off on two crimpers spat me of
low on the route. I did okay on the next few moves until the
dyno finish: from two slopers to a razor blade jug - what
can I say autsch, sayonara and game over. Gary's turn: high
step with your left foot and into a contorting double left
hand gaston - autsch and the tendon was still sore three days
later. Gee its good to get past 40 in one piece.....
Almost time to finish now since Will's bucks night was looming
large. I had a little bit of juice left in me - or so I thought
- and my old friend “Rubber Lover” (25) deserved
another try. Of I went feeling much heavier on the first three-quarters
of the route clocking in at 22 until you reach the "sloping-jug"
before the crux. I was very tired by the time I hit the crux
crimpers of the final boulder problem and that's exactly were
the story ended.
We will be back .......
Roman
12 March 2007
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