It was the first day of winter cold, rainy and everybody else was smart and slept in on Saturday morning. Campeltown was still asleep when we turned up for a ginormous breakfast to fuel up for a days worth of roof climbing. The junkyard cave rule is simple: climb horizontal roofs until you get bumped senseless and then climb some more. Even the easy warmups feel hard and in June the holds were thirsty and sucked the chalk right from our fingers. Every jug was swimming in our juices and holding on was like like squeezing a spunge, and that was before it started to rain! The grades are solid at the junkyard and you get nothing for free, its a humbling experience to struggle up endless juggy roofs forevermore. Who has ever heard of an overhanging mantle move? Ridiculously overhanging cracklines with healhooks and douple kneebars make you dig deep into your exhausted chalkbag. But wait there was more......a Koala was watching us from high above?
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Junkyard Cave |
Junkyard middle |
Dan Junyard Dog 25*** |
Dan on Sin City |
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Leo Douple Heals |
Roman Junkyard Dog |
Leo on Sin City |
Leo on Scrambletown 21 |
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Negative Funk 21** |
Liverpool Girls 18 |
Tracksuit Time Warp 23** |
Amidst all this you find the Junkyard Dog waiting to bite you with its hard start, reassuring rest and sting in the tail. So many jugs amidst so much air must be a crime of passion.
We will be back in summer when we have forgotten and the rock will be warmer. Koala please wait for us.......
Roman 1 June 2013. |