There is also a very detailed area guide at thecrag.com but without the details:
This time our excuse for climbing was to farewell Di to her African adventure for four weeks so what better way than to celebrate with a day of climbing in perfect weather at the central coast. Gordon and Jason were kind enough to play tour-guide as usual and Jen, Leo and Ben joined us to explore the versatility of the Kingsview Crag. The acces to the crag was superb: park your car and walk down a gully and find yourself immediately dwarved by the massive sandstone roofs and many caves of the crag.Mum’s New Home is the first cave and area name you arrive at and Big Black Spider (18) is the only warm-up around. Depending on, who you talk to and also on how you begin the climb it is either 18/19 or 20 and will basically pump your cold forearms to smithereens. The next cap of the rank is the mighty Bike Boy (19***) with its tough roof move. If you are still not ‘warmed-up’ than there is the casually graded User Friendly (20***) with its cruxy moves through steep pockets on a slightly overhanging wall.
We had a close look at the two hard climbs in this area called: Stainless Steel (22**) and Deliverance (23**) but judged from the minute crimpers that it would pretty much finish us off for the day. Gordon tried to sell us on Fax Machine (22**) but the online description: - I’m gonna make you squeal like a fax machine, boy! - somewhat but doubts into our minds and instead Leo and Roman headed for a climb called Finesse (21***), which was a bad move. Gordon tried to warn us with: it’s an ‘overhanging slab’ but we weren’t listening! While the beginning of the climb has fantastic balance moves you end up underneath and overhanging inverted book corner completely devoid of any holds. The trick is to throw on two heal-hooks and heal-hug your way up around the mantle move. Several falls later I finally grabbed the sloping iron-stone edge and mantled up only to find myself several meters above the last draw on top of a moss-covered slab. I made my way up gingerly to the hidden bolt calling for mummy…. I highly recommend that you try this on top-rope first.
As as second pitch we managed to quickly squeeze in Fist Full of Lube (19**) a nice overhanging arête and the short but powerful Express Delivery (23***) and then it was time for lunch. Gordon enticed us to relocate past half-a-dozend crack lines (Crack House) and we ended up at the delightful Kumagutsa Area. We all had a crack at the amazingly desperate Here Comes the Sun (20***), where a thank-god under-cling leads unsuspecting climbers to the holdless move! Grope as much as you like you will not find a thing, but remember your feet – ballet dancing comes in handy on this one.
This is when we started to go hard and Gordon and Jen started to explore a seam called simple “A” (15) guided by placing natural gear. Just below that seam was an awesome roof traverse attempted by Roman to a soaring arête called Between the Sheets (23***), which led to the same anchors. But that was just the beginning, Jason wanted another shot at his sparsely protected project called For Pete’s Sake (20***). He finished it in style and nearly tore his shoulder blade on his second ascent. Leo had a shot at the smooth curves of the bouldery “MU” (22) and when the light finally began to fade we spent our last ounce of strength on cleaning the draws on User Friendly (20***). It had been a long day and it was time for a quick shower at Gordon’s place, where the Kilkenney never tasted better. We farewelled Diane at the local club where Mat and Martin caught up with us.
I am already dreaming of the next crag……….
