Ah if you think reaching for the moon is hard you should try celebrating your mates 50th and survive, now that's a challenge worth our while. SoThursday after work, Adele and Rene, Will and Mat arrived at our new getaway Pearl Bliss at the Central Coast's Pearl Beach to get started on the long weekend with some pizza for dinner and a few bottles of carefully chosen wines. Adele's shoulder was still sore and Rene had just hurt her leg in a climbing accident at Frog Buttress but they made up for their injuries with a gorgeous smorgasboard of cakes and other delights. Will brought his diamond python along to the"delight" of young and old, and Stanley moved freely throughout the house over the weekend and would have probably snuggled up to the unsuspecting guest if not put back into his basket at night.
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Dinner time |
Elka trying hard |
Chris on the masterline |
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Adele recording Mum |
Gabriel and Roman |
Louise mastering the line |
Friday morning started with rain, which pretty much set the mood for the weekend but we were not going to let that stop us. Our local climbing guide Jason was going to show us a selection of crags but our options were limited by the cold wind and rain. Lobster cave was an obvious choice: a massive roof covering the entire crag, with ocean views, protection from the wind and enough slopers to make us scream with delight. We warmed up on:
1. Lobster (20**) the first part of the amazing roof climb Roast Lobster. Slopy crux low to big undercling jug. The final move to the anchor is quite tricky or move straight into the roof and continue for Roast Lobster.
2. Second cave carrots (19**) with slopey crux to nice balancy finish.
3. Pinchy the Lobster (19**) you will know the name when you feel the last hold before the jug in the roof. Great fun.
4. Roast Lobster (23***) straight out the horizontal roof for 5 meters on massive jugs and heelhooks for a final crux just before the anchor. Awesome, its worth coming just for this one!
Lobster Cave Panorama with Martha
We spend most of the afternoon climbing with the whole family watching and both Christoph and Martha having their first outdoor climbing adventures. When the wind picked up and it was time to head back home Jason and Roman checked out a few more lines for next time
5. Dave's Climb (21*) The last climb on the boulder just outside the cave. I thought this one would be nice for the kids to try! I was wrong, this was probably the most desparate slopers I have touched in a while and the balance moves required precision foodwork - a tough lead. It was getting dark now but the fading light made the rock glimmer in iridescent orange. After the desparate slab there was still time for one more roof problem.
6. First Cave (23***) Tough slopey boulder problem start leaves you gasping for air at a midway rest. Then jugs out a huge lip to the top of the cave. Amazing. We were going to finish now but we could not just walk past the immaculate orange line on the way out. It looked like huge jugs anway:
7. Scallops (22**) Starts easy on mega jugs with rock straight from Arapiles, But then the jugs stop and a thin seam traverses out right over the void. The holds turn into hideous crimpers with good footholds under a ledge so you can see what you are standing on. The final move is a classic and Jason launged himself at it over and over in the fading light of the day. two desparate crimpers bring you foot up high, squeeze and lunch for the final jug. This one we will have to come back for........ Online Guide to Lobster Cave here.
By the way the two huge rock buttresses above the lobster cave are called WAGSTAFFE Boulders and feature some of the best bouldering at the Coast. The online guide and map is available here: Wagstaffe Boulders. Arriving back at the house after darkness, the curry was in full swing, the beers tasted so sweat and the pappadams crumbled perfectly but not before we had attacked Mat's carefully selected salami and cheese. The soothing sounds of cricket drowned nicely amidst the children playing in the house somewhere Stanley was slithering silently.
Will on Suspender will do it
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Roman and Jason Graffit Climbing
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Jason and Will on Rather be dead than red
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Will high on the warmup arete.
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A helping hand on Waver Fingers |
Blackwall views |
Jason sending his project: Suspender will do it
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Saturday come far too quick and Mat's coffee machine worked overtime in the rainy morning. The oats tasted nice on our outside deck while the drizzle around us felt soothing. Mat and the girls took the kids to the beach and Will and Roman promised to the do shopping for the barbecue: after some more climbing. Jason met us at Ettalong Blackwall which was amazingly dry given the circumstances. Our local hermit was still asleep (we think) and we began w e cutomary warm-ups:
1) Easy Warm up on the Arete (16**) To top rope bolts to be cleaned up at the end of the day.
2) Better breaks than a kitkat (19***) Obvious centre crack at kitkat wall
3) Waffer fingers (19**) with a very sharp traverse at the beginning until the hueco. Add a great if you put on the first bolt hanger.
4) Suspender will do it (19***) Jason's project with a tricky exit move half way up.
5)Rather be dead than red (23**) Thin slopers up a vertical slab with two new ringbolts as anchor. No hands rest after first punchy wall followed by slopey crux moves.
A quick shop at Ettalong for our barbecue meant we were back at the house early afternoon, where Elka and Di had arrived and kept Stanley busy. Once we discovered the pingpong table in the garage it was on! Fierce table-tennis battles raged all afternoon interspersed with the slackline in the backyard. We discovered that the veranda poles probably were not strong enough (phew) and after some imaginative rigging with the recycle bin Elka, Will, Mat and the kids strutted their stuff. By late afternoon the barbecue was in full swing and the wine was flowing incescantly. Adele brought out her cake masterpieces and we celebrated Will's birthday with a wetsuit that would bring shivers to Joel Parkins. No more excuses to stay out of the water in winter. We only had one day left and it turned out to be the best of the bunch with the sun finally offering its embrace we all headed towards Pearl Beach. Frolocking in the sun Will brought his rods and managed to catch a fish. But before long it was time to clean-up and head back home.
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Barbecue Time |
Elka WINS the Slacklining Comb |
Martha and Christoph |
Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Happy Birthday Will
If you want to see more go HERE.
Roman 30 July 2015.
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