The year is slowly ebbing away, but there was still time for one more trip to the crags on the Central Coast. We met as is customary at Zanzibar near Woy Woy and fuelled up for a day of climbing at one of the many micro-crags: this time we brought kids along so Jason suggested Point Clare literally just minutes from his house.
Point Clare is the perfect suburban crag with sun all day and a mixture of slabs and overhanging roofs. The climbs are superbly bolted with either rings or carrot bolts. Each climb as a modern rap station which makes cleaning very easy. It is a short walk from the car with some very interesting boulders that have not been climbed yet.
The turn-out for this day trip was phenomenal: Diane brought Brenda and Carol, Jason turned up with Los and Josh; Louise brought Roman senior, Chris, Roman Junior and Leo; Ben, Tom, Mat and Gordon also joined us to make a grand total of 15 climbers.
Once we put up our ropes and draws we basically owned the crag for the day with a smorgasbord of routes to choose from. The daily selection included:
Main Wall
Mr. Window (***rated as 16 but without chalk marks probably more in the 17-18) range.
Master Window (*** rated as 15 bur probably also more like 17)
One Day Wazza (*** 18-19, very interesting edges and crimps)
Just left of the Main Wall: two superb roofs
They are everywhere (***, graded as 17 but with the note that this might be a sandbag and yes it is. More like a 20).
Sugar Lover (***rated 25, one shot with lots of hang-doging, tough lower traverse on crimps with no footholds to a jug rest with heal-hook, strenuous clips to lip of roof, knarly travers under roof with funky heal-hook pocket, strenuously over roof with rock on over right foot and final crux move to gain jug on arête, sweat, pant grunt, felt a lot harder)
The slabs (just right of main wall)
Too many fun slabs to mention them all with the highlight being the last one on the right facing the cliff:
Line of Choke (***20) fantastic positions with photographer ledge up high from the roof section around the corner. Excellent
The roofs (We only tried the first line on the far left hand side following the arête):
Contrivial Pursuit (**23, ring-bolted but with a horizontal finger crack gap to a very reachy clip up high; some hold may have broken off maybe now best done with a friend for protection in the crack to clip the last ring before the anchor. I will be back for this gem.)
Wall past the cave
Disco Cheese Grater (***13, probably more like 15-17)
There is one more area on the Upper tier with some nice lines but by 15:30 the burning sun had gotten the better of us and there was still a quick pioneering bouldering session to do before heading to the cool deep swimming pool at Jason’s place. It did really feel like an oasis and after a cool refresh the slackline came out and some old records were broken, the gauntlet was cast and there will be future challenges. The barbecue was: well perfect and thanks again for an amazing day and looking after us. Looking forward to the next one already.
If you want more photos go Here.
Roman 16 December 2013. |