Leo, Mark,Roman

Like father like daughter

Will & Martha

To lead us into temptation,
but deliver us from evil,
for thine is the kingdom. but the power
and the glory will be ours, forever.

We have paid far too many visits to Lindfield and after Mark's dad had moved near Rosevile we could be considered regulars. But you can only do so many laps on Pipedreams before your ego feels you are invincible. So it was time to eat some humble pie by visiting the relatively new crag of the Promised Land where a religious experience is waiting for you. Also, if you like the highballs at Lindfield and are a master at the clandestine art of mantling, you will be in heaven, pulling gut-wrentching mantles five meters above the deck. Your new mantra will be 'Please God only let me finish this one highball without my heelhook popping out and I will be good for the rest of my miserable live.' I promise, really, no fingers crossed. We learned this the hard way when we tried to warm up on:

The Unamed direct Boulder (V1) - Number 23 Our Father Who Art A Boulderer (V3) - Number 19 ResErection (V2) - Number 21

The Unamed Boulder (V1) required a committing heel hock with hands firmly locked on two crimps. From there you pop blindly for the top and if you miss your heel flips you around into the gently arms waiting below. Many a prayer crossed our lips during this easy warmup. Next was our first "easy" highball: Our father Who Art A Boulderer (V3). Roman took serveral wingers before Mark discovered the one-finger pocket that got us half way up the wall. The next shallow two finger sloping excuse of a pocket was disgraceful. Several falls later we decided we were warm enough and moved onto something a little lower to the deck. Mark and Leo cruised The Left Hand of Geoff (V4) at the Three Wise Boulder Cave. Roman tried out his heelhooks on The Right Hand of Geoff (V5). Warming up was pretty much complete and the apricity was teasing our bodies. It was time for one more hard sector.

Leo Tasting Pockets	ResErection V2	Mark - LeftHandOfGeoff V4
OurFather	Mark ResErection V2	Mark - SonOfAlphaeusV3 before the fall
LeftHandOfGeoff V4	Leo GoingGoliathV5	Teamwork Mark and Leo
	Check out the Video of Going Goliath V5	Always, always be nice to your spotters.....

There was no going past the crag classic. The enigmatic Out of the Lions Jaw (V5) at the top tier of the King Davids Overhang. Unfortunately, this boulder problem only has one star in the guide, which is understandably because it really comes down to only one move. Or perhaps, 'move' is the wrong word here, it is more like a beached whale, a full body rock massage or groveling up a sandpaper funnel. A mantle in the most outrageous position, five meter up completely overhanging with no visibility of your feet what-so-over and a downward sloping funnel with no holds. If you have never met your maker, if you have never begged for mercy - this is your climb and the rest is history. Just as good was Going Goliath (V5) with harder moves but an easier highball mantle finish. After polishing of Gods first Problem (V5) Mark decided to finish on the classic James the Son of Alphaeus V3, with a highball but relatively easy finish. The tough moves are at the beginning and that was were the bouldering mats were. He unexpectedly decided to try out his wings when he popped off high on the last move, while Leo and Roman discussed the weather below. He was lucky to only bust a toe and his ankle survived the fall. Wye Creek here we come.......

Copyright 2005 Dr.Roman Rosenbaum. All Rights Reserved.