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Will's Secret Crag: First vist - 24 September 2016

 

This above all, to thine own self be true, and it must follow, as the night the day, thou canst not be false to any man

Will had discovered this crag early in 2016 and found some evidence of chalk, or was it cockatoo poo? After scoping the place with little Christoph, he finally took Roman along for a first reconnaissance. Witchetties and fire ants that was our first impression of Will's still secret crag, still nameless (The Falls? The College ? (Oxford) it has a high concentration of boulders within a very small area. Super easy access from the road with approach less than one minute, thank you. Many hidden gems remain unexplored, unbrushed and unclimbed but make sure you bring a boulder mat there are many highballs! Despite a short visit we managed to polish of some ten boulder problems, highballs, a few slabs, a number of arêtes and at least one reasonably desperate project. There are many more but we need more boulder mats, spotters, chalkbags and lots of brushes. So if you are keen come and join us on our next visit. Many untouched lines remain and some boulders have not been touched yet. Boulder guide below:

Unclimbed Boulder
Will Slab Cleaning
Unclimbed Slab - come and get it.
Witchetty Arete
Main Roof at Fireant boulder
Unclimbed Arete
Will on Highball slab
Unclimbed Nose
Will Cleaning long arete
Unclimbed Pockets
 Short but sweet: undercling powerto high reach and mantle V2/3 unnamed Witchetty Bouldere with the Grub hold up high
   
Will on the crux of V4/5 unnamed
Witchetties

 

1.Warmup gully – lots off potential but many of the ironstone edges snapped off so we kept this one for another day.

2.Cave boulder

Two slabs on the left hand side of the cave with a massive tree for a ladder
Right hand side of cave has a long highball slab with two routes on it.

  • Nameless (V0**) We did the easy variation on the left. Cave has a makeshift shelter in it so somebody has been here before.
3. Witchetty Boulder – great for warmup traverse with big holds. So far two routes:
  • The Grub Hold (V1/2)
  • The Witchetty arête (V0)

4. Fire ant boulder – great potential for hard problems. So far four problems:

  • Jugs up left side of funnel (V1 highball ***) Will traversed into it from the left and added a grade V2***. (Nameless on right hand side)
  • Arete on Right hand side of boulder (V1/2 highball **)
  • Fireant V2/3*** highball on Jugs (Far left hand side of boulder)
  • Center of boulder V4/5*** (nameless: jugs to sidepull, healhook, gast on high to crimper and dyno to jug)

5.Slab boulder – so far only one route at obvious orange streak.

  • Spider pocket (???) Nameless but excellent highball slab V2/3 with potential for hard start.) lots more routes on left side but needs lots of cleaning.

6.Long arête boulder

  • The long arête (V2ish *** crux at the beginning then easier but long. Potential for very hard start)

7.Stumpy boulder

  • Klingon (v2/3***) grab two underclings and try to stay on the wall. Microcrimp up left, lift your feet and shoot for the jug. Mantle and breath.

 

Roman 28 April 2016

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
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