Hard bouldering is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop.

This was our third visit to the Balkan's in 2018 and probably our last as we bid farewell to the year, but the temperatures in late spring where favorable before the impending summer heat arrived and there were too many projects waiting for us. So it was time to send once more before the heat arrived.

This was also our first trip to the Trenches sector of the Balkans and it did not disappoint. Finding the area was easy enough and we realised why it was called the trenches with the proximity of the boulders laid out before us like a medieval labyrinth strewn with amazing boulder gems around every hidden corner. The proximity of the trench walls made falling off an entirely new proposition. It did not matter as we searched for our way through the maze because we headed straight for the Main Cave.

“It's always further than it looks. It's always taller than it looks. And it's always harder than it looks.”

This is where the hardest problems were located and Fat Women (V4/V6**) was our target today.The long V6 variation started deep from within the cave’s bowl, but we were tired from a long day at Nomad's yesterday so the short V4 version would have to do today. I made not much of a difference because the technical slopey ramp without holds was the final crux before the mantle exit.
It took forever to work out the correct sequence and Chris provided the solution with a high left foot rock-on for the final desperate dead point to the jug. Our forearms had lost plenty of skin from the perfect friction before Fat Women was laid to rest.

“Use skill when you run out of holds”

We also had a few attempts on the mega classic long cave traverse Bring It On (V6***) but the continuous technical moves shut us down pretty quick. There were too many problems waiting for us at the Frontline so we relocated and went straight to the business of the day: Sloper-Dan Milosevich (V6***). This is arguably the crag classic and a must sent for all those who seek desperation. After Roman J. did a quick warm up lap and tried the V8 variation it was time for Will, Cameron and Andrew to try and send this mega classic. The holds on the boulder problem are surprisingly elusive with the smallest mistake sending you to the crashpad below. Most of us were too tired, but it was Andrew's time to shine. He was keen, hungry and wanted this problem more than the rest of us, he refused to give up and after we had left to another area we heard his victory shout after he finally sent this uber-classic. We quickly repeated the Pincer Movement (V5***) and Roman J. tasted the Crimps on COAT (V11*) but his tips were too sore from the day before.

“The mystics believe the world is in a rain drop; to the climbing live is in a single small crystal.”

Roman J. had a hard-breaking send of Full Metal Jacket variant (V8**) when he completed all the hard moves and launched for the jug, his back touched the spotters hands as he swung out hard. Could this be counted as a send?
It was getting late in the day but we had three crash pads for the first time so we left all the skin we had remaining for a few more shots at Milo (V6**) with Chris and Roman both locking off the final left hand crimp before the high crux. Will's candy sticks provided a welcome finishing touch to a long day bouldering.

We shall return again soon…..

Roman 19 November 2018