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North Head - World War Three

Tough my soul may set in darkness, it will rise in perfect light;

I have loved the stars too fondly to be fearful of the night.

The heydays of North Head climbing have past some might say. There are no guidebooks and online route descriptions are outdated with few reliable instructions. But the jewels are still there, waiting quietly in the shadow, weathered, with bolts rusted to oblivion, no anchors and outrageously exposed positions. The fisherman descent ladder has rusted through completely we discovered the hard way. Then we discovered a completely new secret descent. Somebody has been busy! It was time to pass the torch to the next generation: softly for sure so the notorious Fear and Bolt Ladder are out for the time being, but WorldWarThree with two pitches of classic exposed sand stone climbing via the hidden World War II bunker ledge was a great introduction to the world of sea cliff madness. Bolts are long gone but the nice fist size crack line that connects both pitches hungrily accepts your camming devices. All natural now with a panoramic belay ledge the climbing is moderate with a few cruxes thrown in for good measure. The grade is anybody’s guess but make sure your heads used to the sucking void the crashing of the waves below and the wind gusts tucking on your pants. First all family ascent of this multipitch classic.

Leading Pitch2: WW3

Fisherman exposure
FishermanDescent North Head.
Roman Climbing Pitch 1
Chris Crux Pitch 1
Fisherman Descent No More
Bunker Ledge
Fisherman and Panorama
Chris Pitch 1
New Fisherman discovered
Chris on dihedral Pitch 2
Roman Cruxing high on Pitch 2
Pitch 2 Pano
Bunker ledge collapse
Bunker Family
Looking North
Roman on Pitch 1 Crux
Amazing Boulders
Another trip for this one
Bunker Ledge Panorama
 
Looking at the Fear
WW3 the way out
Twins on Top

Don't judge each day by the harvest you reap but by the seeds that you plant.

Fisherman Panorama across to South head with Cityscape on the left.

Bunker Ledge belay and start of second pitch to World War 3 (19***)

Roman 1 Ocotober 2016

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
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