A long Easter Weekend with almost immaculate summer weather, who could ask for more? It was time to take the next generation to the Blueys and show them a 'world in a Grain of Sand, And a Heaven in a Wild Flower. Bardens with its amazing Little Triger Wall, was definitely going to be busy but we walked straight past the crowds and moved in the blissful silence of the Land of the Giants. No crowds and a whole crag to ourselves. After warming up on the customary slab routes it was time for the classic Statistical Scare Tactis (20***) with its reachy final crux move. This was followed by two classic lines:
Awesome Daddy (18**) with its bouldery start
Thanks Mum (17**) with its immaculate headwall
We went further East towards the end of the crag where the magic orange Funkytown (20***) was basking in the sunshine. I discovered that in a shady wall just before there was a climb with a name that I could not walk past:
Chocolate Crackle and the Mischievous Gnomes; graded an enticing 20* but make not mistake this climb has it all with thin moves galore, glued on holds and long reachy moves. It would rate it as a classic 22 maybe 23 but with a name like this who cares.
The afternoon sun was beginning to come into the crag and a late lunch saw us retreat into the shade of the Adults Only Cave. We were keen on trying the Way of All Flesh but it was busy so we went for the classic alternatives:
George King of the Jungle (25***) very long with a rest cave and bouldery arete crux than long and steep.
These terrors be but arguments for children (26***) Short but very punchy with a heartbreaker of a crimp crux.
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Cameron Thanks Mum (17**) |
Roman on George King of the Jungle Crux (25***) |
Andrew on Awesome Daddy (18**) |
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Cameron FunkyTown (20***) |
Roman resting on George Kind go the Jungle |
Cameron leading |
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Di Thanks Mum |
Roman These Terrors be but arguments for Children (26***) |
Funkyt Town Panorama |
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RockBoys |
Jason on Funky Town |
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Day two started wet with the morning mist enveloping our tents in Leo's backyard. Everything was soaking after a perfect day and there was a light drizzle in the air. We headed straight to the neareast cafe in Katoomba to plan our next move. After lots of big breakfasts and cafein our next move was obvious: shopping for climbing gear at the local shops.
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Andrew Opposition in Exile V3*** |
Chris pressing the mantle on Opposition in Exile |
Andrew on the amazing Violent Crumble roof V3*** |
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Cameron Opposition in Exile |
Boulder Boys |
Cameron's new bouldering mat |
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Roman If the shoe fits (V8***) |
Chris Milo and Kofi (V6***) |
Cameron Berlin Blockade (V5***) |
List of Boulder problems:
Violent Crumble V3
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-eastern-bloc/route/17664919
Berlin Blockade V5
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-eastern-bloc/route/17664775
Diplomatic Solution V2
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/front-and-centre/route/17665993
Montenegro Wall
Out on a limb V1
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-frontline/route/17669437
Opposition in Exile V2 desparate for the grade
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-frontline/route/17669485
If the Shoe Fits (V8**)
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-frontline/route/17670157
Battle of the Shorts (V6**) at the Pee Boulder
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-frontline/route/17669293
Two hard pockets and a Dangerous topout with only one pad.
Milo and Kofi (V6***) Main Wall
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/north-west/the-frontline/route/17666521
If you want more photos go here: Easter2018
See you all soon ...
Roman
12 April 2018
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