The next generation was keen and pushed hard for another trip to the Grampians. Following our foray last year to Halls Gap and the surrounding crags of one of Australia's premier climbing destinations it was time for a second coming. No better time for peak friction conditions than the long Easter weekend - although large scale close downs around the Buandik crags meant that we were heading towards the Mount Stapylton and Hollow Mountain crags further inland, were uninhibited climbing and bouldering was still possible. Moreover that is the place also were one of the planets most amazing climbing wall is placedmajestically amidst a vast cornucopia of boulder fields: the mecca of mixed climbing - Taipan Wall. Camping was going to be busy over Easter so we opted for the Mount Zero cabins close by and we moved the date a week before Easter to avoid the crowds. The notoriously bad Easter weather completely ignored us and summer came back for our visit with temperatures reaching the thirties, but cold nights mostly prevailed and brought the friction back for us in the morning. With a slackline waiting in the backyard for us, hot showers, cold beers and snacks after our return from the walls, there was just one thing to do all day long: climb and boulder then climb and boulder some more.

Yet, it was hard to walk past the magic of Taipan Wall, once we laid eyes on it from the approach up and over flat rock its spell drew us in from afar and that is also where we spent most of our time. With boulder craglets surrounding the big walls and the access paths literally littered with house size boulders, there was plenty for everyone. This time our motley crew was comprised of generation Z:  Andrew, Cameron, Chris and Roman and the rest: Louise, Dave and Roman. Our itinerary was roughly divided into a day climbing followed by a day of restful bouldering (LOL) then repeat:

Day zero Thursday 11 April –12 hour driving approach followed by slacklining session in the setting sun over the bush, closeby the barbecue with marshmellowroasting. Not a bad combination for finding your Drishti.

Day 1   Friday 12 April: Taipan Wall

Following the obligatory oats breakfast for extra stamina, this was our first day at the big wall and we were immediately welcomed by huge screams as strong boys took the huge wipper of Groove Train(33***) - the mega extension to Groovy (28***) - one of Australia’s most notorious hard routes with a big run-out to the anchor. Most climber made it to the last rest sloper high on the wall completely pumped out of their minds trying to recover, shacking out desperately, and getting ready for the final 5 meter runout crimp section to the anchors. It was amazing to watch the best in the business taking huge 10meter plus whippers of the top while their screams would echo through the valleys below all day. Welcome to Taipan Wall. For us gym climbers it as a sobering experience - the immense proportion of the wall, the exposure and the mixed gear took some time to get used to. Our first experience was World Party Pitch one 21 *** but the description along tells you the commitment required for one of the easiest pitches at Taipan:
Worthwhile, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. The flat slabby flake, then 4m right along breaks. Three slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge.

Day 2   Saturday 13 April: Venus Baths Halls Gap

Taking a winger of Mr. Joshua (25***) and nearly fracturing my ankle because I did not place a cam at the right spot, meant that today was supposed to be a rest day, but the painkillers did their job and we headed off towards Halls Gap's Venus bath bouldering spot to take care of some outstanding business from our last trip. Immersion (v8/v9) and the highball Copperhead (v8***) were waiting for us. Chris and Andrew dispatched with Copperhead in a few tries and Cameron came very close. Andrew came close to sending Plastic Facts (V6**) at the Bakelite Concept boulder. Everyone dispatched the unique campus moves of And then there was Red (video: V4***) and Roman had a play on Stoplight Arete (V10) while Cameron tried the Left variant (V6**). It was getting dark quickly at the Immersion boulder and we bailed for a pup meal but decided to cook instead because Halls Gap was packet with tourists and kangaroos and it was getting tricky to distinguish between the two

Day 3   Sunday Taipan Wall 14 April

Dave was pushing hard to get back on his project at Taipan Wall - Annaconda(28**) a long mixed line with a hard to read crux sequence, so it was day two to work some projects at Taipan. Since warming up at Taipan or the nearby Spurt wall is tricky business, we hoped straight on the cruel crimp edges of Pussy Galore (22*). The next best thing was Dial-A-Lama (24***) with its hard lower and upper crux and Cameron and Roman S. fought their way up this difficult next best warm-up. Chris was looking for a project and chose Weak Boy (26*) while Roman cast his eye on the unforgiving campus moves of Spurt Girl (28**). My ankle was still too sore to get back on Mr.Joshua(25***) so I attempted the shorter Menstrual as anything (25***) instead. The line starts with an amazing dynamic V4 boulder problem and  tooka while to get through, it was followed by the high crux which according to the guidebook reads: "Be careful of the runout finish that has claimed a few broken bones from distracted belayers short-roping." Late in the afternoon with the wall tinged in orange afterglow Roman had one more shot left in the tank and send Spurt Girl his first grade 28. There were bags full of marshmallows waiting for us and the fire burned brightly that night inside and out.

Day 4   Monday 15 April: Ravine Gorge Climbing

We were tired from a big day and wanted something to go easy. The heat was intense for Easter and we reached 30 degrees that day so we headed for the shade of the Ravine for some "easier" climbing. The crag is in the shade all day and temperatures are much lower than the surroundings, but prepare to be intimidated by the 40min walk-in! It was worth it tough with immaculate long sustained face climbing. Congratulations to Andrew who send Pains Criminal (23**) and Chris and Dave who managed to unlock the impossible crimp sequence on Portland Criminals (25**). Chris onsighted the tricky Violent Crumble (23*) and Roman and Dave went to work on the steep Ravinous (26*). Louise also send the technical Hey Youse (18*). The uniqueness and isolation of this crag make it worth the effort to reach it and it also has some of the best easy grades in the area. The highlight were: Pain Ford (19***) with its huge jugs littering across a tall vertical face and on the other side of the gorge Dark and Stormy (18***). The long walk wasn’t half as bad on the way back in the dusk with scrumptious cheese and salami waiting for us.

Day 5     Tuesday 16 April: Hollow Mountain bouldering, Anderson, Loopeys

With the body tired from the big walk in to the Ravine Crag, we needed a quick fix for the next day and bouldering around Hollow Mountain was the choice of the day. Only a short drive from the Mt.Zero Cabins, the Andersons bouldering field at the base of Hollow Mountain is easily Victoria's most popular bouldering destination. Lots of free standing Font style formations with nice soft landings. We started our day at the aptly named Font Boulderand the classic Out of the Bleau (v5***). Everyone send the hard compression start of slopeycrimpers except Roman Senior who had to be content with the easier traverse option White Destiny (V5**). I will be back to get my revenge. Just at the back on the Rocks on Blocks Boulderwe discovered the amazing Captain Pugwash (V2**) with its scary gaston move which everyone tackled gingerly. After a couple of desperate attempts on the Birtday slab boulder on the eliminate J.S. Memorial Slab (v4***) and the nearby mega classic Lygon St.Massacre (v3***) we had a few attempts at the Gasoline Prow boulder but found that it was too complicated to work out were Gasoline V8* was heading. Instead we found the well-hidden Gobsmacker area and worked a nice triplet of classics: Cameron discovered and sent Epinephrine (V5**) and Chris worked the contrived extension Testostrogen (V8*). Roman worked the desperate crimp and undercling moves on Gobsmacker (V11**) and Chris discovered Assuming the Mantle (V7*) which was dispatched by everyone. Searching for other classics in the area we discovered the intimidating size of the Sydney Highrise Boulder with the classic highball Sydney Highriseand its sandbag grade of V0***, just be warned to not attempt this lightly but it does get easier the higher you go. Andrew and Cameron gave French Toast (V7**) a couple of hard goes before we decided it was time to call the morning session quits and relocate for our afternoon delight.  At lunch time the temperature was soaring again into the thirties and we decided that higher ground would provide a fresh breeze and the Hollow Mountain cave was always nice and cool. There were a few problems waiting for us, but since once again there is very little in terms of warmups besides Wimmelfriedhof (V5***) Roman played on the classic extension called Ogre Thump (V9***) with its heal hook cruxes. But there was unfinished business from our last trip on the classic Rave Heart v8***. Roman dug deep and sent after working out the crux reach to the pocket.
Chris decided to have a go as well: locking of the hideous crimp with the heal-hook, outlandish reach to a far-away pocket, bring your right hand to the second pocket and launch for the jug on the lip. Now bring your right hand into the undercling and finish the final throw to the jug. Suddenly the problem was done. It was getting late now and the temperature dropped nicely, walls suddenly turned orange the suns embrace was welcome once again there was one more task to complete at Loopeys were Bitch Slap (V7**) was waiting for Andrew and Cameron. Easy start jugs, place your right healhook and reach up with your left hand to the most ridiculous sloper, change you heal to a toe, and launch as desperately to the deep slanting pocket - it was on ! As the sun faded on the horizon Andrew and Cameron threw themselves over and over at this mega classic but only one would succeed. We will have to come back for the final send. Meanwhile Roman Senior managed to crawl his way up Fashion V4*** before we all collapsed on the way down. Since we had exhausted our food supplies it was pub time in Horsham and Dave scouted the Bull and Mouth for us with arguably the world’s largest chicken parmigiana! Make sure you go for the women’s version or be doomed….

Day 6     Van Dimens Land (Tribute Wall) Wednesday 17 April

Since bouldering was officially our rest day activity (laugh) it was time for some hard climbing again. Fingertip skin was becoming a high value commodity, but who cares it will grow back eventually. It was hot once again unseasonably for Easter and we needed to find shade through the daytime. Van Diemens Land at the base of the walking track up to Hollow Mountain is the last of several crags running along the base of Hollow Mountain. This is a three-star crag and features a nice selection of mid-range grades for the sport climber amongst us. Since warm ups are rare around this part of the world Dave and Roman set up the amazing Terminal Insomnia (22***) - one of the best sport routes of this grade in the Grampians - according to the guide. However after getting completely pumped on it we decided to move across to Tribute Wall for a better selection of warm-ups. In Halem (19**), Lines N' Noses (18*), the bumpy Midnight Soiled (22**) was followed by the desperate By Jovi (23**). Andrew attempted the amazing Jet (24*) and then it was time to head back to Van Diemens and a few more laps up on Terminal Insomina. Dave was keen on the outrages curving line of Velvet Goldmine (27***) and Chris and Roman got to work on the short but powerful De La Soul (26**). It was dark again by the time we finished the last burns and with one headlamp between the seven of us the way back was somewhat hard to find but with the full moon almost upon us still quite pleasant.

Day 7     Taipan Wall - Trackside Boulders Thursday 18 April

It was our last day staying at the comfort of the Mount Zero Cabins and we needed to use up all the energy we had left. There was no holding back on our third and last day at Taipan Wall and after climbing pretty much straight for seven days. It was the last chance for all of our projects - little did we know that this was our biggest and best day. Dave was first: he had been working on one of the longest lines at Taipan: Anaconda (28***) for a few days but the crux stopped him about half-way up the route. Performance anxiety and thinking too much about the intricacies of the route had stopped him all this time so he decided to just climb and forget about all the rest. He sent early that day and made it look easy. Next it was Roman Junior's time: After sending his first 28 he had watched scores of strong boys falling of Tyranny (29***) and worked the hideous two finger undercling crux deadpoint to a sloper, but always ran out of steam at the final slopers high above. The climb only has 4 bolts in 13 meters so you really want to make sure your clipping technique is perfect. Early in the afternoon after a hot-cross-bun for extra energy he sent his first 29 (8A). Meanwhile Chris had been working on WeakBoy (26**)  with its desperate dead-point crux but he also came of short until as usual on the last shot of the day he also sent. With all these sends I was the only one lucky enough to have a reason to come back to Taipan: almost made it up Dial-A-Lama(24***), almost made it up (Menstrual as anything 25**) and almost made it up Mr.Joshua (25***) after nearly breaking my ankle on it on day one. Not too bad for a climbing trip - the next one is already materialising come and join us...........

Roman 26 April 2019