Mid-winter in Sydney can be pretty mild but Sunday 30th of June was not one of those days. The skies were gray and the winter apricity was alluding us altogether. Yet, the next generation was pushing hard for another climbing trip to the Blue Mountains but it was cold in July and Will made the suggestion of Wingello in the South with perhaps a little milder temperatures. The drive is about two hours so we opted for something in between and Mount Alexandra near Mittagong appeared on our radar. Will had been there before and recommended the place so I proceeded on the long road of selling the plan to the twins. Louise was talked into the trip as well and Andrew and James joined us to make a full car of seven hopefuls. An early start was crucial so that we could enjoy a leisurely breakfast before hitting the crag.  We stumpled upon the RCC Café on the Old Hume Highway which turned out to have a real nice selection of breakfast and barrister brewed coffee just perfect to get us ready for the cold conditions outside.

Just a short drive later we would wind our way up to Mt.Alexandra Lookout and the crag within minutes of walking from the car park. The first thing we encountered was also the most impressive – no crowds – in fact we were the only climbers in this huge crag with several sectors. The second was the impressive hardware of the crag with belay stations everywhere for easy access and rappel. Finally the huge selection of grades from beginner to advanced was amazing and in my mind this crag has the best selection of low grade routes for beginners to learn the basics. It is perfect for families with save surroundings and no cliff faces around unlike in the Blue Mountains for example. The short proximity to the local pub is another welcome attraction, but first there was some work to be done.
Arriving at the crag takes mere minutes and the first Cave is introduced right after the great beginner slab: Schools out for summer (12 **), which is perfect for learning to lead on a low angle wall with easy moves. It is rare so see routes of this grade bolted for beginners and Louise managed her first lead climb while putting on the draws.

Then the amazing First Cave with its three star classics beckons you into its embrace.  We warmed up on the amazing VoxPopuli Wall, which true to its name has several low grade warmups that will please everyone.

• I climb (20***)
• Three and a Half Thousand Sport (20**)
• VoxPopuli (16**) originally mixed but now maybe fully bolted?

The temperature was still fairly low so it was time for something a little harder at the First Cave. It was impossible to walk past:

• Los Hermanos de la Denitente (23***) the crag classic with its 24*** extension through the roof. Roman onsighted the route first off, followed by flashes from Chris and James.
• Electric Gut Stick Gobbler (24**) a classic book corner requiring delicate footwork with James and Andrew working out the moves.
• Biafra 26*** the test piece of the first cave with Roman snagging the onsight and Chris working out the beta and sending shortly after.

Meanwhile Will and big Roman snuck away to explore the Main Cave a few sectors down from the first cave. The sun was hitting the crag now nicely and the shimmering light penetrating the forest created a kaleidoscope of shadows dancing against the rock. It was right there between those dancing shadows were we would find our place in the world on this day. Soon we would become part of them as we danced across the speckles of color buoyed our spirits upward via the updraft that makes rock climbing so mesmerizing. In reality, the main cave is much less philosophical tough, it is more than anything an act of balance mixed with some brute force moving through huge holds in a massive overhang. The fine balance of the headwall suddenly terminates into the steep territoriality of the roof above.

• Diagonal du Fou (23***) balancing moves lead to massive holds that traverse to the edge of the roof, where the super jug awaits. Then more massive jugs along the rim of the cave to the anchor. You forget how pumped you are as you rest on every hold bigger than the previous one. This will make your local gym blush. Roman and Will send in style.

Once the boys were done with the first cave they joined us in the main cave and got to work on the harder variations. Perhaps the most enjoyable line of the crag was:

• Controlled Hysteria (25***) with its delicate bulging headwall followed by steep jugs through the rood. Taking a left escape at the steepest part of roof towards the arête the crux awaits. A cross over into an undercling with a big iron cross move to a good jug makes up the crux. James led the way with an onsight followed by Roman and Chris continuing the send train. Andrew threw himself valiantly against this monster but alas we will have to come back one more time.
• UltineDemence (27**) does not wander about and bunches straight through the middle of the entire roof. Where the 25 deviates is where this monster just begins. Roman onsighted this one as well!

Meanwhile Louise was talked into leading one more line to make it two out of two:

• Grounds for Divorce (16*) is aptly named and great care should be taken when sending your wife or girlfriend up this climb. The slightly tricky bulge is followed by a scare face that can make or break relationships – take care !

The shadows dancing across the rock were getting slower now with the temperature falling and light fading fast so it was time to let it all out. The was one more line left to conquer all the highlights:

• Quickie Qim Fill (25**) is probably the hardest thin finger line at Mt.Alexandra with highly technical crimps requiring fingers of steel and a strong core for the balancy moves. James led the way and Chris and Roman both emptied their tanks as they took turns well into the darkness.

With the boys spending up all their energy it was up to Will and Roman to clean all the gear of the routes left behind in a long day:

• Corner From Hell (18**) is well worth the effort and requires delicate footwork.
• What would you say if I said to you that this gun was loaded (19**) is just to the right side of the main cave and well worth the effort being arguably a contender for the longest climbing name ever?

It was pretty much dark now and Will and Roman spend the rest of the fading light removing all the quickdraws littered across the various routes of the main cave. By the time we were done the headtorches came out, but it was a very short way to the local pub the Lion Rampart, where the beer and chicken parmigiana tasted every so mellow…..
One day we will be back to chase those shadows again dancing across immaculate stone.

Roman 6 July 2019