We had left a lot of unfinished business behind during our first junior rock climbing trip a few weeks back. Back then we started at Barden’s Land of the Giants and arrived late at the steepness of the Adults Only Cave. We spent the a lot of time opening up new projects and then went to Baulkham Hills for a second Day of Bouldering.
Several weeks later we are back to repeat the feat: but this time there would be less time spent mucking about and more ‘business time.’ Anzac Day was the perfect excuse for a day of hard sport climbing to try to push the limits a bit further down the big beyond. We headed straight back to the Land of Giants and warmed up on two of the classic steep but gentle warm-ups:

• Thanks Mum 17 **
• Awesome Daddy 18**

It was the first time this year that the rock began to feel cold and our fingers numbed quickly with the perfect friction. It was time for Andrew to finish of his project from last time:

• Funkytown 20***

He sent it first shot and in the meantime Leo had turned up after walking for one hour from Mt.Victoria station to the crag. I had given up on him, but like a well-oiled machine he turned up and headed went straight on the first available rope. It was time for something new:

• Shabang 21** has a tough balancy start with a surprisingly puzzling crux before the roof awaits. I would give this 22 personally but it’s a great rockword puzzle either way.

Mental note here to bring a few friends for the first few meters of the crack on Casper (22**) which looks amazing – one for the next trip.

These Terrors 26**	Chris Funky Town 20***	Leo Funky Town
Roman Turkey Slap 26**	Roman Funky Town	Andrew Funky Town
		Light tomorrow with today.

The sun arrived pretty soon after we finished cleaning all the warm-ups and it was time to head over to the Adult Cave for some project work. As usual it was busy with professionals – like us! We watched a local playing on Bloodline 32** which was amazing and then we ran into Gene who was working on The Way of All Flesh 26/28***.  The boys attempted to redpoint These Terrors be but arguments for children (26**) so I volunteered to put on the draws for them. Roman Junior had attempted the route last time but the brutal crimp crux refused to relent. The climb is relatively short with some steep juggy moves to the half-way mark. A good hand rest to shake before a steep crimpy boulder problem that finished with a deadpoint to a flat edge. Then a few more big moves without feet and you are at the anchor. I could not work out the crux so it was time for the youngsters to have a go. It was not meant to be that day and we all failed at the crux repeatedly until a curious onlooker gave us some new Beta revealing a hidden undercling, but alas it was too late and there was little skin left to shed an the razor edges.
Anyway I had come for something different: the steep jugs of Way of All Flesh were waiting for me. Gene was kind enough to let me use his brand new ropes and the perma-draws were sparkling in the light so no excuses really. I was keen and blasted full speed up the beginning jugs; a huge throw after a couple of meters went completely wrong and instead of the jug I landed on a sloper – I went flying off into the safety of the huge air beneath the roof and send Leo sailing of the belay ledge. Wow, that was unexpected, I thought the crux was higher. I regrouped and tried again: better this time hitting the jug instead. Next a long move to two crimps – ouch – I thought this was a jug fest? Lock of the two crimps and throw hard for the mega jug – bang – finally I am on the huge jugs. Unfortunately, I was only about 5 meters into a 30 meter roof and the reality of my situation began to dawn on me. Double heal hooks and shake out on massive jugs just before the next crux a long sideway traverse to the final crux: lock of two crimps and dyno again for a massive handle bar. I got this bit clean but was too pumped to continue. A little rest and I cruised to the top – surprised! Then, I was told that I could not clip the anchor because the 50 meter rope would not reach. So there was just the magic jump from the last ledge down to the roof below, close your eyes and jump into the void below. Great climb and I felt for the first time that his was possible.

The boys continued to hit the crux crimps on These Terrors and I was too pumped so it was time to try something new in the Adults Only Cave:

• A most profligate Sinner 24**   a technical headwall to a crux layback flake. Then out a steep roof with a big headwall above. Stunning and very onsightable. Come and get it as it is the easiest climb in the cave.

The sun was now very low on the horizon and the crowds had disappeared from the Little Trigger Wall so we headed back for a few long warm-downs in the fading light. The Juniors were disappointed by the low grades so decided to attempt Turkey Slap (26**) for their warm-down. The crux start kept spitting them off until they decided to forget about footwork and just campus through the crux – easy but it was getting to dark now to see the juggy holds in the roof above – so we left another project behind for next time. Finally it was time to use the rest of our energy to make it to the Gardner’s Inn in Blackheath for a giant chicken parmigiana.

Chris on Atoms in Action 25***	Andrew on Radioactive Man 20***	Megalong Valley Boys	Roman Atoms in Action
Manana belay	The Kaboomba brothers Meadlow Bath lookout	Andrew on Manana	Chris Radioactive Man
		`	The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
	Colloseum Wall Descent	Spook Eyes 18**

Day two dawned early with glorious morning rays, a stiff lower back and creaky fingers but not for the youngsters who were already discussing where to go next. Our first stop was Big John’s for a little retail therapy and some more chalk, then I had to find just the right climbing crag for old and young with enough easy and hard climbs to suit everyone’s taste. A little research at the Victory Café with lots of caffeine and we decided to pay Medlow Bath with its quick access and easy warm-ups a visit.
The autumn air was fresh and temperatures were cool in the shade of the Block so we headed around into the warm sunlight of the Sunbath which delivered exactly what its name promised. The orange rock of the Katoomba Brother’s Area was basking in glorious sunlight, shirts off and we went to work:

• Kaboomba Brothers (16**)
• Spook Eyes (18**)
• Manana (14**)  the most amazing juggy face in the Blueys, a solid 25 meters of sheer verticality with the biggest jugs you can imagine. Would make any green beginner climb in the gym blush with envy. Fantastic and best steep warm-up route in the mountains.
• Radioactive Man (20***) fantastic and hard for the grade. Has a bit of everything: overhanging juggy start, middle technical crimp slab and steep cruxy headwall with balance side move to final mantle finish. Must do WOW.

There was only one route left to really:

• Atoms in Action 25***  if there ever was a classic this is it. Steep jugs get you pumped to the middle of the wall, clip the draw and get ready for THE boulder problem: side-pull, crimp left and crimp right, bring your feet up to big hold and move your left hand into desperate underling crimp. Throw hard with your right to the crimp finish of the crux. Now keep it together to clip the next draw and hold on tight for the steep juggy finish.

The crux is hard to read and spit me off on my first try. Second shot it went easy. Roman Junior flashed the whole thing. Chris Junior fell on the crux to red-point in the fading light of the setting sun. A few more warm downs and the air temperature began to plummet rapidly it was time to leave for some hot chocolate on the way home.
Blueys trip three is already being dreamed about …..

More photos are HERE.

Roman 27 April 2018