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The Whale Wall

Fear Factory Bouldering
27 August 2019
“The best way to predict the future is to invent it.”

It felt like a century ago when I visited this place almost in the heart of Sydney. You will not find the crowds of Lindfield or even Sissy Crag here. But you will find a hidden whale and a good sense of you own mortality deep in those woods. The Fear Factory is the perfect name for one of Sydney's most secluded and awe-inspiring bouldering crag. Tucked away secludedly near a little creek in North Epping, it has a selection of Sydney's best three-star boulder problems. The easy approach, mixture of high and low-balls and a range of styles makes this a perfect day out in Sydney.

Chris at Sinatra Wall- Nancy V5***R Roman Lime Spider V4*** Chris Lime Spider V4*** Roman Kenny Boulder Lefth V6***
Kill the Poor V6*** crux finger tips Chris Frankenstein V0*** Chris Come Fly With Me V4*** Real Kenny Boulder Boys
Roman on You have got the wrong Sinatra V3*** Rock Mantis Louise Count Basie Roman on Nancy Mantle V5***R
Nancy Closeup Chris Pizarette V8*** Lime Spider  
“Many of the things you can count, don’t count.”
 

Our tick list of the day:

Warmup at the Sinatra Wall:

  • Count Basie V0** great warm up to get the blood flowing with lots of variations right of Nancy
  • Nancy V5*** one of Sydney's best fives, easy compared to Mister Smiley or Anorexia but much scarier. Do not fall of the mantle ! 
  • Come Fly with Me V4*** Left of Nancy with some nice pockets and great moves.

Asteroid Belt

  • Pizzarete V8*** one of Sydney's best hard aretes, we will have to come back for this one.
  • Fear Factor 1 V1** We did not try this one but oh boy I will come back for it.

Kennedy Wall and Beyond 

  • Dead on Arrival V5*** very tough and the top out is scary. Match on crimp and powerfully lunge to right hand edge then long reach up with balance finish. .
  • Kill the Poor V6*** desparate with an excrutiating match on a crimp, followed by a powerful throw. This took Roman two sessions after he lost his fingertips. Is probably more like V7-8?
  • Chemcial Warfare V4*** Excellent technical and funky climbing - a must do.
  • Lime Spider V4*** shortish arete with some immaculate climbing requiring technical and balancey climbing. A little easier if you use everything and are not fussy about left or right side. .

The Real Kenny Boulder- beautiful free standing boulder right on the walking treck.

  • Kenneth the Menneth V5**
  • Lefth V6*** nice traveser with high crimp crux.

The Courtyard

  • Blunt instrument V3** it was getting late and this balancy double handed pinch felt desparate. We will be back.
  • Project Runaway V10** easy start with super dyno at the end. Doable?

There is so much more here and we will need a few moe visits to fully explore this crag. Can't wait for another visit.

Roman 26 August 2019

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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