Fear? What has a man to do with fear? Chance rules our lives, and the future is all unknown. Best live as we may, from day to day.

We had dreamt of a return to the holy grounds of the Grampians for a long time. Once restrictions eased somewhat, we quickly assembled a motley crew of young and old and decided to make the long journey to the Wimmera plains in Western Victoria. This time our group was divided and the elite youth team went first: Andrew, Alex, Cameron, Chris, James, Jarrah, Roman and Will and eventually Meg all found their way to Victoria to eventually meet up at the Mount Zero Cabins near Laharum amidst he climbing epicentres of the Grampians and Mount Arapiles. It was not until mid-June that the advanced senior party would follow with Louise, Jason, Martin, Roman and Will. Unlike the younger crew we decided to go straight for the full glamping experience in our luxury cabins with open wood-fireplace and comfy beds, no need to break out the camping equipment. One of the objectives of our trip was to dig out the rusty old trad gear and divide our time between the Grampians and the excellent multi-pitch natural routes at Mount Arapiles. To make sure we had enough gear Will went on a shopping extravaganza and Jason brought his mammoth Number 6 Camelot. He also decided to send his shoes via express delivery from Big Johns. We ended up with three complete sets of gear, enough to stitch up Mount Everest. We were all a little rusty from too much indoor sport climbing and “three-quarter soya flat white decaf late, so it was time to take a walk on the (not too) wild side, change our mindscape, find that Drishti and place some natural gear.

Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.

[Day2] After our long approach, the first morning was wet with due drops throughout the grass and the surrounding eucalyptus trees. The intermittent drizzle made is hard to get out of bed, but we were super keen after our long drive, so nothing was going to stop us climbing on day one not even the rain.  The younger crew lodged in the two cabins next to us and had already climbed for a week straight so only James, Jarrah, Roman and Will decided to join us in exploring a new cave crag perfect for this wet occasion. The Sentinel Cave is a huge cave high up on a ledge, overhang by a large protective roof that would stay dry in the rain. The actual approach to the cave was as adventurous as the climbing itself.  Scrambling up a steep and slippery water stream with a sketchy traverse across a guide rope we landed on a huge relaxing and comfortable belay platform protected by the sporadic showers and with the sun teasing us intermittently from between the clouds.  Sport climbing was a fortunate decision since we were not quite ready to break out the trad gear. A little bit of outdoor gym climbing to move the creaky limbs was the perfect start for our trip.
Dwarf Pumper (20)  short climb with some nice moves that makes a good warmup. Top was wet but still a lot of fun for a warmup.
Stepping on Snakes (23**) Steep cruxy climbing a series of overhands to juggy dynamic dyno finish
Army of Ants (26*) onsight for Roman junior
Media Puzzle (23 **) fantastic boulder problem traverse start to nice easy but steep jug hawling.

Young and old had a lot of fun on the gymnastic moves in the cave. Even though the sun kept getting stronger throughout the day, somehow the drizzle persisted and we decided to relocate from the cave with its showery curtain at the lip to another mini crag on the approach. Called Cave of Ghosts Crag or Mini Castle Crag this crag was a single large diameter pillar on the approach track with short trad lines surrounding the entire block. Perfect for practicing with our new trad gear and also because the location is referred to in the guide as officially “The laziest climbing option in the Grampians,” specifically designed to “attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time.”  In a word perfect for us!

Lamington 15 *
Vanilla Slice 18 *
Rock Cookie 13 *

While the next generation of rock stars practised placing some natural gear, finally the rain cleared after 3pm and the warm winter sun was heating up the beautiful orange rock pillar. It was getting late in the day and the slowly setting sun painted the rock crimson until the dying light.  Will’s brand-new cams got a good workout by the next generation of rock stars.  That evening Martin surprised us with a scrumptious Chicken Curry, yum.

[Day3] Our Mount Zero Cabin came with a super cozy wood fire stove and once the fire roars in the morning, the coffees are made and the breaky comes out, it was hard work to leave the house in the freezing morning conditions. But the sun always managed to smile at us and after testing our gear the previous day it was time to step it up a little and start working on our trad skills before venturing to our testing ground at Mount Arapiles. We decided to explore the Clicke area in the morning and followed it around passing the Kindergarden towards the Norther Walls for an afternoon romp amongst the boulders.  The Clicke Wall is quite difficult to access although it is clearly visible from Flat Rock. The distinctive crack on the far right of the cliff is the amazing Clicke Crack (19*) that gives the area its unique name. Walking under it is awe-inspiring and I promised myself to come back for this amazing cliff splitter-crack one fine day.

Jurassic Park (17*) this is a very distinct soaring crack that runs from the bottom almost continuously to the top of the cliff via a variety of options. Standing at the base and looking up at its full 35 meters of glorious climbing is a somewhat intimidating experience, but it actually climbs very nicely with lots of gear options.

It was difficult to chose our next route since Dinotopia (18**) shared the same start and A long way from Verona (19**) looked amazing too, but we needed to step it up a bit and there was no walking past the ridiculously aesthetic thin crack of:

Giblets (20**) starting with a short 8 meter vertical finger crack provided our first jamming experience on thin gear. Quite heady, it leads to a large juggy travers with perfect gear. The following steep corner on immaculate rock is mind-blowing and then the vertiginous overhanging finish on jugs make for one of the most engaging mixed climbing experience in the Grampians.

Since all four of us were climbing the same routes, the morning evaporated like the early fog around us in a heady spindrift that delivered us into the afternoon sun. We walked around past the Kindergarden bouldering cave and onto the Northern Walls for some afternoon climbs.  At the very end of the Northern Walls where they join the Central Buttress multi-pitch crag we located a large boulder with two easy climbs for some easy trad climbing:

Synthetic Spine 15** fun trad arete on unique detached block. This climb has it all with a overhang start, thin reachy face moves in the middle with a final slopey mantle finale. Do not underestimate the challenge – Louise and Martin were working hard on this one.

Wooden Heart 16* Jason and Martin led this nice face climb up the block.

Will went exploring around the corner along the base of the Central Buttress and discovered a hidden gem late in the day. A right facing fully bolted corner crack with some sporty moves up immaculate rock amidst a sea of long multi-pitch climb. We could not find any description of the line but if felt like about 23*** with a crimp crux low and then some nice balancy moves up an overhanging right facing corner. As the famous Wimmera sunset spread itself across the sky it was a nice way to finish the day.

[Day 4] After getting some practise in placing natural protection it was time to leave the boulders and sport climbing mecca of the Grampians behind us and head toward Djurid the local Wotjobaluk tribal name for Mount Arapiles, a rock island that rises about 140 metres above the surrounding Wimmera plains in western Victoria.  Arapiles is arguably Australia’s most enigmatic rock-climbing destination due to the large quantity of high-quality multi-pitch climbs that go all natural. Primarily composed of quartzite the first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by the European explorer, Major Thomas Mitchell, who renamed the landmark after the Arapiles hills near Salamanca in Spain.

We started the day early again with the stoke particularly high. Eggs on toast and lots of coffee with some cereal, the stove was roaring, but I was eager to leave the cabin and promised lots of coffee and chocolate croissants in Horsham, which was only 20 min drive. From there another 20 minutes to Natimuk and we were almost there. Apart from Jason for whom it was the first trip most of us had been here before, but for some of us – Martin and Roman it had been over twenty years since we last visited this magic climbing spot. This is a shout out for Bryan and Leo who climbed with me here in the previous ‘millennium,’ over two decades ago. Needless to say, none of the magic has been lost and the towers littering across the skyline are just as overwhelming as they were so many years ago. It did not matter where we started, but Will took the wise choice of selecting a nice introductory area for us. The Golden Fleece Wall features a selection of lower grade trad routes that provide a good introduction to the vagaries of Arapilesque climbing. What follows is a selection of introductory trad routes great for a taste of what was to come:

Pedro (11***) the ultimate warm up that takes any gear you can throw at it from micro-nuts to number 6 Camelot’s everything fits perfectly. And at 36 meter length it is very atmospheric with 20kg of metal hanging of your harness. What a great introduction.
Beautiful Possibilities (15**) was Will’s choice with very balancy moves across a smooth face with the crux being the placement of minute nuts. At 30 meter length a good selection of small wires outperformed our friends by a country-mile.

Golden Fleece (18**) it was time to test how far we could push the grades and this excellent routes features steep jugs to a bulge with a crux move into a steep arete. Once again 35 meters to the top and we were enjoying the long steep moves on trad gear.

It was now lunch by the time we all had a go and it was kind of getting busy around us since the place was drenched in warm winter sunlight and it was possible to climb with shirts off. Note for our next trip, jump on the Moby Dick pinnacle and try: Moby Dick 17*** at the back of the pinnacle and the amazing Hyaena 17** at the front. We relocated slightly down the cliff face towards the remarkable Organ Pipe menagerie and the imposing D-Minor Pinnacle.

Horn Piece (13**) a stricking line through the middle of the last pinnacle with a crack running elgantly through the steeper upper part of this 33 meter pitch - magnificent.

D-Minor (14**) two pitches with a terrifying description: 'This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. '

Will ended up cruising the whole thing in one pitch and making easy work of the final overhanging roof section on jugs. Too easy for an old trad fox with modern gear.

[Day 5] Our first day at Arapiles had been an incredible experience, the time we spent here some two decades ago and the associated memories of glory days came flooding back. The dreamtime is strong in this magic place and foraging amongst the rocks brought long forgotten stories rushing back to the surface. We couldn’t resist to go back for another day. This meant getting up early again, so we rose to lots of grumbling noises at 6am and loaded up on coffee while trying to get the fire started in the freezing cabin. Martin was our expert fire-starter and did a great job of keeping us cosy and warm. We just had to make it some 20min down to Horsham where the bakery and the fresh brewed soya flat whites were waiting for us. From there it was a quick drive via Natimuk to Arapiles. We started our second day at Araps in the classic Muldoon area.

Tantalus (8*) Jason and Martin
Muldoon (13**) Roman and will
Clytemnaestra Buttress (10*) Jason and Martin

Iphigenia (17*)  Roman and Will, this stunning two pitch route surely deserves more stars? The tricky slightly overhanging crack on pitch one takes perfect gear and leads to a nice viewing platform. From here the line soars up a stand-alone pillar steeply towards the heaven. Pulling the final roof justifies the sacrifice of a lifetime. Not unlike the story of Iphigenia who was killed by her father Agamemnon to appease the gods on this way to the Trojan War. Some days are tougher than others.

Time flies when you are having fun and lunch time on the perfect rock with one of the most picturesque views you can image brough out Will’s famous wraps: ham, cheese, letters and sundried tomatoes with a serving of artichokes for good measure 😊
Relocating in the afternoon just around the corner, we walked past an amphitheatre of stunning lines. ButI laid eyes on a striking line that we just could not walk past. It was the mushroom overhang of Pilot Error and that is where we were heading.

Togrul Khan (19*) Roman and Will,  a steep cruxy overhanging corner that leads to several steep but juggy rooflets. The exposed top is a mystery and we nearly rapt down on a top rope anchor placed precariously half-a-meter below a steep wall – don’t do it ! super scary. Just before Will was going to throw himself onto the anchors, I discovered a little downclimb that led to a hole in the rock below. Phew.

Mesa (10*) Jason and Martin, two pitch delicate climbing on immaculate orange rock with a steep finish and a crux roof crossing in the middle.

Now that the warmups were done with it was business time:

Pilot Error (20***) Will, Jason, Roman. A huge overhanging and exposed roof high up above the valley floor. What else could I say? A brief moment of excitement that may take longer for some than others and then the jugs shall set you free.
The sun was getting low on the horizon again and we still had an appointment at the climbing store in Natimuk. Let’s just say that the perfect pair of pants were waiting for us. The haggling was fierce, and Jason threw everything he had in his quiver at the poor unsuspecting shopkeeper. But the force was strong with the Natimukian that day.  There was only one place to go to sooth our aching limbs: the pup in Horsham where the ale was strong and chicken Parmi so delightful.

[Day6] We needed a low-key day after spending two days straight on the sharp end at Mt.Arapiles and sleeping in a little was a tasty proposition, with the crackling of the fire competing with the early morning farts for attention. Poor Louise hanging out with four blokes in a cabin must have been punishment for some previous life. Once the bellies were full again and the gear was sorted it was time to check out a new crag with some sport climbing for relaxation. The West Flank is a completely unexpected crag on the West side of Flat Rock. It is hard to believe that such a large and steep crag can exist at such a flat approach track to the steepness of Taipan Wall. It is well hidden on the right side of Flat Rock as you leave the carpark just skirt around the base of Flat Rock until the steepness appears all of a sudden.  We thought we were lucky at first and had the place to ourselves, but before long the weekend crowd arrived with several families. Fair enough, since this crag has a great mix of easy moderate and even some hard routes that attract a variety of clients. We were lucky and Mat Brooks turned up as well to work on his project – one of the most stunningly lines I have seen and reputed to clock in around about 30ish. Some of the excellent warmups include:

Nuclear Novice 16* very nice warmup with an incredible description: ‘The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!’ that is quite a statement but I am happy to agree.

Dirty Pomp (17*) Very popular and ‘best easy route at this crag.’

Blues Braker (12*) this fine little flake top to bottom, makes for an excellent warmup. Set up by Will for Louise.

Nuclear Error (19*) was very popular and saw a quick ascent by Martin and Jason.

Nasty Nukes (20*) This is a great moderate climb with one very desperate move. Undercling the big jug with your left hand, reach high for a pebble and crimp the hell out of it. Match your left foot next to your left hand and reach high for the jug. Once very hard move.

With the warmup dispensed and the sun moving its embrace slowly into the crag things were heating up quickly. Time to get on something a little harder:

Yellow Cake (20*) a very nice soaring line with several little rooflets. Will got smashed on it cleaning after a very long day.

The Hot Zone (22**) Boulder problem around base of short flake and rooflet, lovely thin faceclimbing to final roof crossing.

Uranium-234 (23***) only has one star on the web but the mid height very balancy boulder problem deserves a lot more. Great pocketed wall with jugs down low to a rest stance, then five meters of technical problem solving to easy high finish. Excellent and very thin, this took quite a few tries.  

Melting Moments (23**) Another great line: Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery crux moves over overhang, up and Right a long a balancy flake (second crux) to easier second overhang.

It was now getting late again and the crowd disappeared into the evening, the Wimmera afternoon colours enchantingly appeared once again, bathing the rock but there was time for one more climb.

Alpha Decay (22**) not sure about the grade since it is listed as 20! But that would make it the biggest sandbag in Australia. Follow the giant hanging flake through the middle face, via ever steepening territory until the grand finale, a desperate throw to the big rock horn right at the end. Very techy and pumpy and it will make you fight all the way to the end. 

Just before it got dark Roman, Chris, and James turned up for a quick look at many of the undiscovered boulders around this area. There is so much more to do here and we will be back.

This was going to be our last day after climbing straight through six marvellous days of rock smorgasbord. It had been quite a trip, with early rises pretty much every day and the body was starting to send us signals that we did not want to hear just yet. A week is not all that long when you are surrounded by some of the best rock that Down Under has to offer and all within an ease hour drive anywhere. So, we needed to go out with a big day and once again Arapiles was our choice. Leaving our cabins Will noticed a kangaroo on the way side unable to move, but there were no visible injuries, most likely it was hit by a car in the early hours and was no longer able to move away. We called the Wildlife helpline and a very professional operator talked us through what to do. Back on our way we imbibed the last chocolate croissant and hot coffee before Araps came into view once again. But then something horrible happened – despite my bitter complaints – the gang turned on me and headed for a drive up to the lookout. How dare they, I was destroyed and reluctantly joined them on the short walk to some of the best views in the country. The rock below us teased me gently, straining my nerves, but I gritted my teeth valiantly. Just one more photo!  After an eternity (5min) we left for the parking lot at the towering Pharos. While Jason and Martin headed across to climb the superb:

Arachnus (9***) right up the middle wall of the watchtower, the description says it all: ‘ an unforgettable classic, that reeks of day gone by.’

Spiral Stair Case (8** four pieces) probably the easiest route up to the top of the Pharos but after Roman had his route of choice snatched by 20 seconds from another party, I just found the most difficult way possible up this easiest route – fuming all the way. It was only after a solid dosage of “climbing heroin” aptly named by Will that I calmed down a bit.

French Fries (17***) after discovering this little gem during our descent from the previous climb the joy was back. This little short punchy slightly overhanging crack actually demands a tiny bit of jamming, so it is quite a test piece albeit quite short. We just could not rap past it.

Hurricane Lamp Crack (12*) Graded 12 with five pitches but we only did the first two and then escaped onto the left face for pitch 3, which was more direct to the rap Anchor and featured a nice steep single 35m pitch via one bolt. We also discovered 2 bolts in the roof above ?

Five Fingered Mary (20**) Jason and Mark climbed a variation of this line to the left (facing in) from Hurricane Lamp Crack.
Somewhere in between we attempted lunch with the ham/cheese wraps for a brief moment in the amazingly strong winter sun.

But the day was flying past us so we had to hurry to squeeze in just one more of the amazing lines all around us. Spoilt for choice we decided on:

Coming on Chris 16*** Just below the Pharos on the Uncle Charlie Pinnacle was a single easy line amongst the hardness all around the pinnacle. The route looked like it was going straight up and I accidentally ended up in the amazing Nose Job (24*) for a few moves but after falling off Will gently pointed out that escaping to the left was the proper way.

That about finished us all and there was just one more stop to make on our way back to the cabins and that was once again the pup in Horsham. On our last night the next generation joined us for a great evening and a farewell of sorts, since the young once would stay on and we would have to return to city alas. This time we will back sooner - before the decades fly past.