A lazy Sunday afternoon after too many days climbing in a row, with limps sore from not enough rest days, the first days of spring lulled us into exploring yet another micro bouldering crag deep in the wilderness that is Belrose. Who would have thought that so much can be found with such little time on our hands? The weather was teasing us with summer temperatures at the very beginning of spring and we could not refuse the perfect conditions. We knew about this crag, but had not ventured there before due to the intimidating combination of highballs and slabs: surely everyone’s worst nightmare? Unsteady friction points high above the ground with hands desperately searching for holds and feet barely smearing we tether along perfect rock formations: never sacrifice your imagination at the altar of crude reality.

Will and Andrew came along and Dave turned up to test his new knee out, Roman and Chris on their fifth straight climbing day, or something like it, plus me with sore shoulders, busted hammy, strangely painful left Achilles for some reason – what a perfect team. The micro crag was well hidden, near one of the most beloved mountain biking trails - Heath trail. Within earshot of the downhillers you would never find it. An oasis of tranquility with the perfect highball slabs. Immaculate rock on perfect scoops where friction becomes your best friend that deserts you just when it gets tough up high. The perfect winter crag with sun all day there is something for everyone. But beware even the easy grades require some gumption.  

Here is description of some of the problems we attempted:

Number 7  (v2**) great warm up and introduction to the crag. Use the two monos to get established then climb the curved seam above via layback.

Number 8 (v5 *) desperate sloper finish – getting the foot high is the crux – bring extra crashmats for this one.

Number 14 (v4***) amazing balance: undercling and bring your right leg high for the smear – reach/dyno for the gast-on, hold the swing and establish on decent holds. Then try smear with your feet and balance up the final bulge in absolute terror.

The Owl (V6***) Must do problem here but surely the grade is a joke?  Terrifying highball – bring a rope !!!  good slots but hard steep move lead to a desperate slab finish high above the floor. Reachy final moves on crimps: bring your entire family for spotting and all the mattresses you have in your house. Amazing.

There was not much skin left when the sun decided to retreat ever so slightly from its apex in the sky, temperatures relented and serenity was at a premium with long shadows embracing chalky holds.

There was time for one more problem:

Number 21 (v5***) More stars for this one please and a better name. One of the few steep juggy overhangs leading to an intricate sloping edge. Got right foothold is misleading drop right and counte-balance with left leg to hold the sloper – mantle gently up high. Dave made it look easy.

This crag deserves another visit – in winter – when my leg is better. …….

If you want more photos go HERE.

Roman 20 September 2019