Chris, Dave, James, Louise, Roman J.Roman S.

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The Devils Circus Cave Panorama

Bells Supercrag - 27 October 2019

Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.

This was not my first time at Bells – the supercrag. I had been there several times before loving the place so much for its climbing and hating it for its approach and remoteness.  More often than not Duck Wall had been used several times as Plan B option when Pierces Pass was drenched and we could not go for one of the longer options. But things change and nowadays the remoteness and tranquility provides a welcome relieve from the crowds you find at more accessible locations. So this was the first time I took the entire family as well as James and Dave for support J For quite a few of us this was the first time at Bells and Louise had been conned into joining us for the long walk and was our unofficial team photographer. Dave had been there before and most recently destroyed his knee on the superb Event Horizon (27***), one operation later on his meniscus. lots of rehab and climbing therapy and he was back for another round. He was crazy enough to join us after nearly winning a bouldering competition the night before and coming a respectable second. I don’t think his body will ever forgive him for that bad decision.  In any case, the six of us left Sydney early to meet at Dave’s secret little coffee shop in Kurrajong for our caffeine preload before heading out into the Grose wilderness. Roman Junior was driving on his first long L trip to the Blueys and before we knew it we were heading down the 30 min trail hike that would lead into the deep canyon that formed Bells with its various sectors. For the first time visitor the scale and remoteness of the place is breath-taking and the amount of climbs boggles the mind. The arrival area was still in the sun when we got there about 10 am and the “sunny-side” beckoned us with its welcoming shade. It was spring time and the temperature was perfect with cool air flowing up the canyon and a light chill in the shade. Since Duck Wall already had a group of climbers we decided to leave them in peace and head to the Sunnyside crag with its sustained longer routes. We warmed up on Seamstress 22*** which is a very popular climb in two parts: a corner start to a big rest ledge followed by a crux move over the lip and a pumpy headwall.  Quite a rude awakening for the various muscle groups, but as enjoyable as the first coffee in the morning. One more warm up at the far right-hand side Accretion (20*) deserves more stars and attention with its beautiful jugs up a long and exposed arête. Best to clean this one with the second top-roping while removing the draws.

James on Mr. Redeemer 27***

Chris Reality Dysfunction 25***
Dave in the Devils Circus Roman Pearch Search Lurch 28***
Chris Mr.Redeemer upper crux 27***
Pockets anyone
Scoping Reality Dysfunction 25***
Roman S. lost in a sea of rock
Will Cleaning long arete
Unclimbed Pockets
Dave in the moment Mr.Redeemer 27*** Roman engaged with the crux of Pearch Search Lurch 28***
Louise enjoying the serenity of the cave
James & Roman Accretion 21***
James Mr.Redeemer 27***
Roman on Accretion 21***
   
  Dave Seamstress Direct 27** Arrivalls area in the sun Bells Canyon  

With the warm-ups dispensed Chris and James were keen to hop on Reality Dysfunction (25***) with its superb jugs to a final red-point crux boulder problem. Let’s just say for the record: there were many formidable and valiant attempts every so close, but there can only be one master. Meanwhile, Dave and Roman Junior got seduced by immaculate rock into trying the direct start of Seamstress Direct 27***, with its hard gast-on lower crux. But today was going to be an introduction to Bells and we wanted to see and try as many walls as possible, so there was no way we would miss out on visiting the amazing Devils Circus with its massive roof routes. Arguably one of the best and longest caves in the mountains, we came for the notorious Mr. Redeemer (27/28***). This route punches 20 meters through the most horizontal guts of the cave on mega jugs to pump you out of your overloaded mind. The number of knee bars, toe jams and heel hocks will rewrite your body’s pain threshold and teach you what hard climbing is really all about. Often the jugs are so big that one is lulled into resting just a little too long with the pump setting in mercilessly before the last crux section up high awaits. It is one of the most glorious torture devices in the entire Blue Mountains nation park. And we threw ourselves against it, all day long, draw by draw, hold by hold, redefining the definition of hang-dogging. Today we gave new meaning to the term with an entire armada of canines on leashes. And the floggings were distributed very lavishly. First Chris, who put on some of the draws and worked out all the moves, next James who managed some nice link-ups, followed by Roman Senior who entered the Guinness book of records for most rests on a single climb – literally draw by draw – trying to avoid his broken left heel-hock and coming up with some alternative right heels that did not work at all. And finally poor Dave, who had been flogged on the 27 direct start after nearly winning his bouldering comp the night before. He did really well on the first half and then got cut into pieces by the upper section of the route. Next was Roman Junior who had flogged himself on the 27 followed by another flogging on the unusual Perch Search and Lurch (28**) with its desperate cruxes. He was up for this third flog of the day, when he try to dyno the first crux with the wrong hand and tried desperately to “redeem” himself. Alas the first round of flogging was complete. Chris and James stepped up for round two. Firs Chris, who had the best shot of the day – nearly making it to the top crux three quarters of the way. But after four and a half minute of endurance climbing he pumped out. James was next and his sole purpose was a new high-point and he succeeded brilliantly in linking right through the first dyno crux before coming off.  Round two of the flogging was completed and it was getting close to 6pm, where had the time gone?  

"Everything has beauty, but not everyone can see."

In the meantime Roman Senior had discovered a little gem to the left of the cave called PHM3 (24*) which was punchy and short unlike the rest of the cave.  He even managed to sucker Dave into it for his third flogging of the day. With two neat cruxes the route deserves more attention and evinced some of the best curses ever heard from Dave. With the sun right into the cave it was time for our third sector of the day – back to the arrival area, which was now well and truly in the shade. James had set his eye on Wet Paint (24**) and with desperation managed to complete the onsight of the day. Roman was pooped after a triple flogging and gracefully went for number four. Chris followed with a last ditch flash, while cramping up in both legs. It was nearly dark now, but there was time for one last effort on the amazing Jingle Bells (21**) right next to the exit that would lead us out of the canyon. Never had the last climb of the day felt harder, Roman Junior managed to send, followed by James and we just managed to escape Bells before darkness fell, with sore limbs we climbed out of the canyon into the dying raise of a perfectly cloudless sunset. A last selfie and a short drive to the Archibald for the last order of the bistro before it closed. It had been a mega day and we will be back soonish to continue the flogging………..

 

Roman 29 October 2019

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
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