This trip was boys only with a rare no show from Louise who had two very important zoom meetings to attend. Life is busy as a peak performance librarian. So a week before Easter we decided to start early and head up the Blueys to make up for too many weekends of short boulder problems. Crumbly and Sissy had gotten a serious flogging, but the endurance tank was on empty. Watching a free internet rerun of Smitten (2010) brought back the longing for long steep forearm throbbing routes on immaculate sandstone. But at 6am we woke to torrential rain, alas it was not meant to be and we went back to bed. By 8am the rain had  - was it still worth it - yeah why not and we hit the road unusually late at about 8am. The ride up through the new M4 tunnel was smooth and being Saturday traffic was still light. We arrived at Bid John’s for a chalk refill just before the shop closed and managed to buy a spare pair of climbing shoes on sales. The free chalk bag was all it took to convince us of the perfect fit. So finally just before lunch we were ready to rock. We decided to suss out a new crag that we discovered serendipitously through one of our long crag.com searches. "Waterfall" came from nowhere right near Mt.Boyce. The description sounded inviting, so we fell for it and soon found number 1 parking at Mount Boyce, where set off on our way to explore this new crag. We eventually found it, but let it be known that this is the most adventurous of approaches to any crag you will ever go in the mountains. Actually, getting there classifies as a serious grade 21 on-sight achievement. Once you find the deep narrow canyon cleft embedded deep in the forest with a huge chockstone perched right in the middle, your mind is already blown. Then you take some time to discover the via ferrata rungs running to the side of the chokestone, underneath it and overhanging below it - wow. Do not fall here or slip or the abyss below will swallow you up whole. Once in the deep cleft you start wondering if you have accidentally gone canyoning? But once you emerge from the deep cut in the rock, suddenly immaculate orange sandstone appears punctuated right in the middle by an enormous 'waterfall.' Remember that I mentioned it had rained heavy in the morning before we left and we were now feeling the result of a fully loaded waterfall exposed to high winds coming up the wall from the valley floor. We were being blasted by the full force of the fall coming our way. The place was soaking and we were about to retreat in dismay until a hidden corner revealed a completely dry wall with three routes. It was now well after lunch and it was not a bad option after the adventurous approach. The only problem was the routes were graded 26,27 and 29 with all the nice warmups soaking. Ah what the hell we might as well try. Chris was first trying to explore the moves on the 26:

Spiderpuss 26*** this route has been called one of the best 26 in the Blue Mountains and that is a big call here is my own brief description:

Climb up a couple of steel rungs for a batman start to keep away from the vegetation. Once established you face the first crimp crux - lock of right crimp and reach really high to flat ironstone edge - try not to get pumped on the sloping ledge here and prepare for the second crux - caston to crimp rail and bring your feet up the slopey ledge to a high left hand undercling - big right hand drive-by to a decent hold (a little intermediate two-finger pocket will help). Shake our here and get ready for crux number three - the hardest in the set; we all did this differently but here is my beta:  throw up a real high right leg heel-hock,   gaston to the bad sloping triangle with your left hand and bump your right hand to the side pull just above your heel, reach real hard with your right hand to the tiny intermediate crimp, bump again to the rest jug. Now the hardest moves are behind you, but you are only halfway. Here the pump sets in and you have some tough moves on steep ground ahead of you. Take your time and rest trying not to get pumped until a gentle top-out. This route truly is amazing and many of the reviews suggest it might be one of the best 26 in the mountains.

Chris and Roman Senior kept taking turns on this route while poor Roman Junior was belaying in the freezing waterfall spray. Just before darkness fell it was his turn. Since there was little time left, he just chose the hardest thing around:

 Unstuck in Time (29***) an amazing overhanging arete, with a dynamic start, blank arete section right in the middle and a crimpy face at the end. Roman J. worked out the moves on his first go pretty quick, he was psyched and ready for the send. There was very little light left maybe enough for one more shot before darkness fell: On his second shot, he flew up the first dynamic section easily, pumped through the crux and then his foot slipped on the final face section in the waterfall spray - (insert your favourite expletives HERE).

By the time he came down he had no fingertips and he was drenched from the waterfall mist. Out came the head torches and we cheerfully campused up the overhanging via ferata to get up to the car again. Due to the pumping waterfall we did not really get to enjoy the full crag, but we will definitely be back for another shot on the more moderate classics of this unheard-of crag. The kebab tasted very special that night. It was late by the time our bellies were full und we unanimously decided to stay another day. Since we had not prepared for a second day, we decided to try one of the Motels in Blackheath as well as the caravan park, which were all closed or did not take any guests. Finally Katoomba came to the rescue and we ended up in the Sky Rider Motor Inn close to the Indian restaurant near the freeway. The owner was kind enough to receive us late and since we were the only guests the place appeared quiet and deserted. After a day in the waterfall spray with high windchill factor we were cold to the bone and the warm shower never felt better. The warm beds and complementary tea healed the sore bodies and we were ready for another day.

We woke to breakfast coming to our door which we pre-ordered the day before. Careful, once you start the Glamping experience it becomes very difficult to stop. By 9am we were ready to hit another crag – spoilt by choices we decided to explore the Gateway crag at nearby Blackheath. We onsighted the approach to the well hidden cave system (you need to read the description very carefully but it is accurate and will get you there). The three overhanging caves of the Gateway have some of the finest red sandstone in the Blueys but were blasted by ferociously cold wind gusts. Roman wanted to try something hard but the razorblade crimps would have cut him to pieces. I wanted to test the rock and decided to run up:

Smooth and Crunchy (18*) but it is probably best to take the grade with a grain of salt or two. The cold rock was punishingly sharp, and the moves felt hard without a proper warm up. My call was to get the hell out of the wind, and we left for a more sheltered crag.

Upper Shipley was nearby and considering the wind it offered the most variety in terms of shelter. We began with a retroflash of the classic:

Junket Pumper (24***) All time classic with a nice juggy overhang to warmup until the undercling rest. Then the crimp crux sequence which feels never right but in the cold conditions it somehow worked.

There were very few people about and I decided to look for another warmup close to the twins projects

Better than Chocolate (23*) seemed a good choice just before Wave Wall. How wrong was I, the foot free traverse along two bolts pumped me senseless and after a short rest the top crux appeared nails. I just managed to clip the reachy anchors with my frozen fingers before slumping back in the rope. I recommended to move along quickly.

Sea Air (28*) was Chris’s Choice and is one of the shorter routes at Wave Wall with hard bouldery moves. He fought his way up and we bailed back around the corner in windy conditions.

Tutu-sullied flesh (29***) It was blowing a gale now and the temperature was plummeting in the shade of the Glen but Roman was keen to work the multiple cruxes on this monster. Two shots and he came very close, but the numbness prevailed.

It was getting very cold now and the wind picked up a little more. We needed to get back into the sun before it disappeared all together, so we jogged across to Upper Shipley. We had time for one more and it had to be a classic finale to the weekend.

Weak as I am (23***) what an amazing route and you will need a full 60 meters to make it back down in one piece. Sustained climbing all the way with good rests that will get you pumped. You will need some headspace for this one and the views of the afterglow over the valley made the weekend complete.

Once again, we raced the setting sun for the warmth of some tucker. It was time to leave the autumn landscape for the city sun, but only briefly to recover some skin and then we shall return.

Roman 13 April 2020