Chris, Roman J. Roman S.

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  Washaway Boulders Exploration April 2020  

“When in eternal lines to Time thou grow’st.
So long as men can breathe, or eyes can see,
So long lives this, and this gives life to thee.”

However, the Washaway slabs, upper and lower tiers, are spectacular, and offer some of the *best* vertical and under-vertical bouldering in Sydney. The style at the lower seam is reminiscent of the Peak District.

The lower tier is an 8 metre thick monolithic seam (read: no horizontal breaks) of sandstone. Counting the slabs and the boulders in the forest area (along the track towards Castle Rock beach), there are around 120 developed problems ranging from V0 to V8. I've drawn up a topo that I happily give out photocopies of, but I've never made it publicly available due to the fact that climbing is technically banned in the Sydney Harbour National Park.

To get to the slabs, I park at the lookout at the Eastern terminus of Cutler Rd and walk 20 metres down the track until it intersects with the Manly Scenic Walk. Then, without joining the MSW track, walk straight another 20 metres until you get to a concrete bunker. Get below the bunker to the left and follow the overgrown gully 50 metres straight down until a small jump-down seam of rock, then another 20 metres to a bigger seam. This seam is the upper tier and has good bits in either direction. Continue down 50 metres further until you hit the biggest 5-8m seam at a big balcony of rock and you are at the lower tier. Again, problems go left and right from here and include some of the best lines in Sydney. Once upon a time we made nice tracks, but they get totally reclaimed by the bush each summer.

At the arete where you pop out there is a five star problem called "The Balcony" V2. it involves a huge dyno move off a sidepull flake to a pocket. Here is a Picture of Phil Schaal pulling through the dyno (scroll down to the 4th pic):
http://phillipschaal.blogspot.com/2010/09/oz12.html


       
Into the canyon Gateway warmup Flappers Giant Chokestone
     
Via Ferrata Gateway twins Canyon light Roman
       
James Alien Domain James 97% fat free 25*** James with another burnt descent rope Louise Shut the gate 22**
       
Thalia Kraut Pleaser 20** The old and the new Bowens Creek Main Wall Selfie Master
       
       
       

Spiderpuss 26*** this route has been called one of the best 26 in the Blue Mountains and that is a big call here is my own brief description:

Climb up a couple of steel rungs for a batman start to keep away from the vegetation. Once established you face the first crimp crux - lock of right crimp and reach really high to flat ironstone edge - try not to get pumped on the sloping ledge here and prepare for the second crux - caston to crimp rail and bring your feet up the slopey ledge to

“Still round the corner there may wait
A new road or a secret gate
And though I oft have passed them by
A day will come at last when I
Shall take the hidden paths that run
West of the Moon, East of the Sun.”
 

Roman 13 April 2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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