This was not our first trip to Barrenjoey, in fact sporadically every few years the place draws us back in by via mysterious calling. Perhaps it is the memory of our first attempts practicing the craft of rock climbing that awaken when memories resurface haphazardly. Barrenjoey means 'young kangaroo', is in the lands of the Garigal people and you can still find aboriginal middens right next to popular climbing sites. The connecting sand spit between the headland and the mainland is known as a tombolo. In 2013 Barrenjoey headland contained tiny pockets of Coastal escarpment littoral rainforest but the early developmental history of Palm Beach demonstrates the rapidly changing environment due to urbanisatioin. Barrenjoey is also one of the oldest rock climbing destinations for Sydneysider rivalling the equally well-know suburban bouldering hub of Lindfield in terms of notoriety. Yet like all crags it has a particular style to it and is best described as an old-school crag, where the grades in particular reflect a different attitude towards rock-climbing tradition. Nowadays there are very few sport climbs to be found and ring bolts are still largely absent. Instead several all-natural lines that require natural gear to be place on lead are the business of the day with the most established and popular lines being mixes. That is, when placements for natural protection are available there are no bolts until placements disappear often towards the top of a route when the angle decreases and turns into a featureless slab. Then carrot bolts are still the de rigueur. Grades in general are on the low side but take care they can be daunting pieces of resistance that may surprise the unsuspecting sport climber. As one of the first places I climbed at in Australia and Sydney, Barrenjoey with its picturesque setting and beautiful views holds a special place in my heart. These days I return rarely but the next generation was keen to try their hands on some natural protection so Alex, Will, Chris and Roman with Louise joined to try placing some gear and learn a little about nuts, cams and aliens. We settled at the Pledge a Ledgend Wall somewhere in the middle of Southwest Barrenjoey.

1) Pledge a legend (14***) wide offwidth crack with a left dog-leg in the middle that makes for a nice crux. Takes all kinds of large gear and great for practise. The slab move at the end is protected with a single carrot bolt and the climb as double Bolt Belays for anchors. Everyone's first trad climb.

2) Tangerine Dream (16**) several horizontal breaks in the lower half take good gear. The top half has several carrot bolts. I went all the way to a tree because I could not find an anchor. This 16 felt easier than the 14.

3) Not your average cab sav (19***) Several horizontal breaks for cam placements in the lower half than solid sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall, but nicely protected by 3 BRs to double BB belay.
Felt hard for the grade.

This was meant to be a rest from serious climbing so we called it a day after lunch when the temperature began to sore. It was with a touch of sadness that I left the southwest side of Barrenjoey, known very well that it would be a long time before I will return to the remanents of aboriginal mittens amidst the rock buttresses. The next generation was hungry for more adventures climbing and the idyllic setting of the North Shore can only offer so much. Large mountains are waiting in our imagination while time stands still between the rock escarpments.