We had been wanting to explore The Pit for a long time, but something always came in-between. Sunday the 16 August 2020 the stars suddenly aligned. We were heading to Diamond Falls for our second session on consecutive weekends to polish off some unfinished business, but when we got out of the car at Narrow Neck the Westerly was fierce and we quickly realised that we would not last for long on the exposed ledge. Andres, James, Roman and Chris quickly agreed that the sheltered ampitheatre of the Pit might be the perfect place. Nellies Glen road was nearby and busy with hikers. The turn-off at the rusted shelter was obvious and we found the repel fairly quickly. Ascending down the via ferrata for the first time was tricky: wet, overhanging and exposed you need to push to get back into the wall despite the quickdraws. It took some time the get all five of us down, but we worked out the proper technique pretty quick. What lay before us was a perfect outdoor gym with many draws permanently affixed to the high-quality sport route, it even came with a permanent woody and some of the best lines up immaculate sandstone. We headed through the primeval guts of the pit to the other “sunny” side, via many more ropes, clayey tracks and a little brooks. The steepness of the crag was as intimidating as the warmups were far and few between. But there were no crowds except a few creatures enjoying the verticality of life.

Via Feratta (21***) a technical rapel through a slight waterfall, overhanging steel via ferrata. Rungs are spaced liberally so bring your bicebs. Hard to get in at the bottom so clip rings on the way down. Keep a little bit of juice in the tank for the way out on this one, and bring gloves. Can be climbed in a variety of styles: if you position the rope properly close to the rock you can put a backup device on it that slides up as you climb but since the last person needs to undo the rope, the backup will not work well. We used traditional via ferrat style with two slings and two binars alternating protection on each rung. Worked reasonably well but very slow and you can't go as fast as you would like. All in all a great little adventure in itself.

Cruisin for a Brusin (24**)  description in the guide is accurate: "a little stiff" and "probably not the warmup you are looking for". Hell yeah!  Andrew and Roman both send second shot. Two very nice boulder problems that feel stiff but after some beta refinement went down well.

Dichotomy (24/26**) I only did the first 24 part up the amazing orange vertical wall. Starts with steep layaway moves to a jug shake out to get ready for the crimp crux. Upper section has a nice layaway corner. Difficult move to clip the anchor. Well worth doing if you are like me - too weak to do any of the better stuff here :)

Rolling Thunder (26***) respect to James who went up first and Chris for the hardcore cleaning efforts. Decription says it all: "Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder." tough moves from the ground up to a no hands rest than traverse out a huge roof on jugs, nasty move through the roof to relentless pumpfest along amazing arete. 30 meter long monster climb. Wow.

Magnitude (25***) everyone's warmup (grunt) finish the ground up boulder problem on some truly mesmerising holds. Full recovery rest while you look at the massive roof above you. Jug through the steep roof on great buckts until you reach a ledge with a giant heel hook platform - crux time - lock of the ridiculous crimp side pull and tic-tac through some small crimps aided by your left heel hook (warning: do not cramp here). Rest at the jug after this crux section and gaze upward at the 5 meter headwall, take a deep breath, shake out and go for it - a few more hard moves to the anchor and you are done. Warning: this could be the best 25 in the mountains? Last two clips were wet so we dogged our way through. Stellar !!!

Pit Boss (28***) Do you like campusing on crimps through a big roof than this is your climb. Amazing, Chris, James gave it lots of beans and worked out all the beta. Roman sent second shot.

Sword of Domacles (28***) Roman's first onsight of that grade. Andrew fought his way up as well - amazing. But take the name literally, because the sword is just hanging above you. No kidding.

Mono No Aware (27***)  Lovely word play and even better climbing: one word comes to mind lots of "monos" on the steep start, lead to a long traverse left, then a tough upper slab.

Roman 20 July 2020