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| Blueys Week: (Bardens Lookdown, Heathcliff, XXXX, Ukulore Valley, Pierces Pass December 2020 |
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“Forever is composed if nows“ |
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It was time to round up one of the craziest years on record, with what else but one of the craziest adventures we could think of - and this trip to the climbing mecca of the Blue Mountains certainly did not disappoint. We gathered an eclectic mix of young and ‘middle-age’ to explore some of the more deeply hidden recesses of Sydney’s premier escarpment. A few long-hatched plans were finally put into action and some outrageous lines were laid to rest. Hell, if the world can be crazy – so can we 😊. For this special farewell to the world that was 2020, we finally managed to secure one of the quaintest houses in the Blueys – the iconic Cottage in the Bush right next to the entrance of Porters Pass with a slew of crags as our backyard: Celebrity Crag, Sharon Stone, and Heathcliff, were all a mere stone’s throw away. Incredibly the house catches the glorious morning rays as well as the last orange glimpses of the setting sun. We were joined by Louise, Jason, Will and Roman for the mature end of the spectrum and Alex, Cameron, Jake, James the twins and Thalia for the boulder brute force.
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| Sunsetlining |
Ivanhoe dinner |
Louise teaching Jason guitar |
Will testing the serenity |
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“We are not perfect - but we are all limited editions.” |
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Day 1: Bardens Lookdown
Tuesday morning midweek a beautiful cold summer day and the crowds weren’t too bad. Barden’s can still be fun and even more surprisingly, there are a few hidden gems, that I have walked past for years. Morning shade was unusual cold in summer, but the lunch time sun arrived dutifully and the shirts came off pretty quick, glorious rays in the afternoon tinged the wall orange as usual -magnificent when the evening chill competes with the dying light.
Zowie (19**) was discovered hidden by a few trees amidst the sport climbs by James. First climbed by Ant Prehn in 1982 and it has probably not seen many repeats since judging from the dirt and vegetation in this all natural corner crack. Layback, bridging and it even fits a number 5 nicely. James got the onsight and the first placement of my brand-new number five still shimmering purple. I got the second placement – what’s the world coming to? Hidden away this gem needs more repeats from a few desperate like us ☹
Turkey Slap (26***) onsight by James, send by Cameron and boulderbro Alex – no way ! A couple of hopeless tries by Roman Senior and some nice tries by Thalia. Chris, James and Alex also left some skin on the right-hand powerful throw of a hideous crimp called Murky Flap 27**.
Hang on to yourself 22*** arete crushed in style by Will, Jason and Roman S. good attempts by Thalia. The move to the arete used to be hard but not this time. Maybe we are getting wiser?
Lady Grinning soul 22*** right arete at the end of the Little T rigger Wall, nicely sent by Will who showed he can still crank like a demon. Crux shallow undercling move made easier by high right-hand edge.
Holy Leaping Shortarses, Batman 24*** serious contender for the most mixed style route in the country. Hard boulder start leads to mean crimp travers left, followed by underlying mantle onto razor edge slab. Final roof crossing to complete the full body workout - amazing. Nice work by James to put the bloody draws on that scary monster. Nice Flash by Roman J. and Chris and hideous top rope flailing your way up with aid, draw-pulling exercise by Roman S. ☹
At the end of a long day Chris jugged a final casual lap of Way of All Flash (26***) warming down as the sun casually set.
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“It never gets easier - you just get stronger.” |
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| Arete Climbing |
Louise Exposed |
Will and Roman on Ricardo Lagos (22**) |
Heathcliff Lunch |
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| Meg and Cameron |
Jake, Meg, Thalia and Jason |
Meg on Boadicea |
Jason and Will on A Bit of E.T. (3pitches) |
Day2. led us to a well-hidden cliff that receives few visitations these days. Heathcliffe at the bottom of Porters Pass is well hidden around a formidable arete that devides Celebrity Crag and Sharon Stone from a massive hidden wall. Here you find a nice mix of multi-pitch trad and mixed climbing and a few moderate sport climbs for good measure. The cliff is in the shade all morning and it was quite cold but by early afternoon the sun backed the three pitch high wall.
A bit of everything (17,18,19) Will and Jason did this amazing soaring trad line. Starting with a beautiful corner crack.
Ricardo Lagos (19,22) *** Will and Roman on this nice sport multi-pitch. Despite the lower grade the first pitch was the crux. A hard mantle gets you started to an overlap with a massive right hand side pull, bring your feet up and catch the intermediate slot with your left hand, then reach as high as you can and bring your full 6feet of body length or get stuffed. The final move just before the anchor is also nice and reachy, but look for a sneaky undercling to the left of the ledge and you might be able to reach the horizontal finger crack. Second pitch is on the money nice long and exposed moves up a slightly overhanging wall. With a nice crux that is tricky to read.
Leighsageezer (first pitch 22 face) ** long just off vertical face climb with two tricky crimp cruxes – so you think you can reach ?
Bad Blood (first pitch 19**) great varied climbing excellent long route to perfect belay ledge.
Fake Blood (18*** ) why does this not have three stars. Perfect orange honeycombs with amazing jugs and awesome high crux move. Best exposure on the wall with best photography of the valley from the high block – amazing. Must do warm-up route.
Chip of the Old Block (19**) Louise belaying Jason on this 25 meter long gem.
Pierces Pass - Walls Lookdown
This was a special excursion by James and Roman to climb a long anticipated project and one of the most outrageous positions available in the Grose Valley.
I have a dream (25***) there is one in everyman’s dreams and this one of the jewels in the Blue Mountains crown - with the most outrageous positions in space imaginable. Well done Roman J. and James. Watch this Weekend Whipper Video to get a sense of the exposure.
XXXX crag
After a hearty pub-meal at the end of a long day when the oldies retire with a couple of beers, the next generation slipped into the next gear and went night-bouldering. The first attempt was thwarted by a crashpad strap getting stuck in Alex’s car so the boot would no longer open. But the following night it was game on again and the midnight session was on. It used to be the only mythical bouldering crag in the mountains, but is now gradually being superseded by the well-hidden Ukulore valley. There is little that can stop the ascension of bouldering it seems, and the quality of rock discovered is beginning to rival the Grampians. So watch out Blueys a new generation is coming. Rumor has it that Chris (V8) and Thalia (V5) send while Roman was working Myology (V13***).
Here Tom O’Halloran showing how its done XXXX Bouldering.
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| Chris and Cameron |
Cameron on Bleach Belly V9*** |
Thalia on Riverside V7** |
Bleach Belly Pano |
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| Meg on Riverside V7** |
The Riverside Boulder Black Scabs Away V7** |
James in action |
Chris on Tippy-Toe V7*** |
Day 3: Donkey Mountain -Ukulore Valley
Amazing rainforest bouldering reminiscent of the remarkable Bleachers area near Halls Gap in the Grampians, where climbing is now under serious restrictions. The boulderfield is just starting to be developed and more and more gems are uncovered. Hard to find but worth the effort.
Tippy-toe freight train V7** hideous rising undercling traverse. Chris came close to the onsight.
Bleach belly V9*** A truly inspiring proposition. Hard body slamming compression move to all out dyno from a crimp. Not for the faint-hearted: Cameron So Close
Kitty-cat factory V3** This one I will come back for. Magnificent undercling move to high lip – then mantle like you are at Castlehill.
Riverbed boulder – Black Scabs away (v7***) gets one star for the most beautiful waterfall boulder setting in the country, another one for the most outrageous positions. One more for the scary topout with the death fall onto boulders. Hard to find worth it for its singularity.
Here Alex Megos and Tom O’Halloran show how its done: Ukulore Valley bouldering
So, this is probably it for 2020, thankfully I guess, but as I write this the boys are already off to Crafty for their first serious Deepwater Solo adventure. With the country still closed but the NSW crags wide open, local at he moment is best, but watch out Tasmania and New Zealand we are coming as soon as the corridors open.
Merry Christmas
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Roman 14 December 2020
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