Cameron Chris, Roman J. Roman S.

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Belrose Bouldering December 2020

“Strange how things in the offing, once they are sensed,
Convert to things foreknown;
And how what's come upon is manifest
Only in light of what has gone through.“

It was only our second visit to Belrose (2019). We had been there previously for a recce with Dave Adams and enjoyed the steep slabs with nice landings but this year with Covid restrictions in place and orders not to leave the peninsula, we were keen for some of the harder high-balls in this amazing place. After several days of grey skies in the middle of summer just before Christmas when the sun momentarily appeared during this El Nino year, we saw our brief window of opportunity and went for it. Belrose is a relatively new area that is unlike many other steep North Shore crags – closer to Lindfield then Sissy and many of the problems are slabs, albeit there are roofs, and cracks as well, making for a nice selection of excellent boulders. This time we were coming for the classics with Cameron, Chris and Roman J. and S. making a late start to claim the last light of day and a nice afternoon breeze to dry out the crag.

 
Chris on the Arete V5*** Finding new boulders Cameron on the Arete V5*** Cameron The Owl V6***
Cameron on the Tree Problem Topping out on the Arete boulder Chris on the V4 slab Chris topping the Crack
Roman on the Arete Engaging the crack line Roman on The Owl Cleaning the Owl


“You may write us down in history
With your wicked, twisted lines,
You may trod us in the very dirt we love
But still, like dust, we'll rise.”

Number 7 (V2**)  A definite warm up slab problem with some nice pocket to get you established followed by a little gast-on move to a nice top-out. But beware these problems are quite high.

Number 11 and 12 both graded V4** similar to the warm-up but this one requires high-stepping on tiny crimps. Once established on the crimps reach high for the slober hold up and high step on the little crack for a tricky finish. Definitely balancy and scary.  Needs a proper name.

Number 20 (V4***) this nameless crack is a gem and deserves a name. I propose “Receeding Hairline” for this classic highball crack. The start is not too bad and laybacking the crack allows you to gain height quickly, but the crux is the mantle top-out with no holds so make sure you have lots of pads and good spotters a fall from up high could end badly.  

Number 21 (V5***)  another classic begging for a good name. This time a steep overhaning arete leads to a crux top-out. Jugs in the middle to rest before the tricky balancy finish. Highsteep your feet to the right and reach the top sloper pointing downward – meatrap it and swing foot to the left, mantle with difficulty. I propose “the Nosejob” for the first ascensionist to consider. 
Now it was time for the problem we all came for – well except for me - the main event so to speak and the mega classic of this crag – if you are into highballs and cruxy topouts.

The Owl (V6***) mega classic up there with the best lines on the North Shore. Crux move of the deck to get established on the line followed by a couple of moves to a rest break. Business time starts here. Reach high with your left hand (via intermediate) to a ridiculous crimp on the lip. Lock it in and place your feet carefully on good holds – move your right hand up to another ridiculous crimp. Palm with your left hand with you feet doing all the work and either carefully or dynamically reach for the final hold across the lip. Height is definitely a factor.  

“If you don’t make mistakes, you’re not working on hard enough problems.”

We had a strong crew that day with Roman working out the beta and Cameron and Chris flashing the line – no falls, which is a good thing from that height. It was getting dark now but the boys had too much gas in the tank so we went to end of the crag where we had spotted a potentially new line which reminded us of the famous Bügeleisen – it’s a stretch of the imagination, fair enough, but the boys began to throw themselves at the new line. A perfectly 45 degree wall leads to a roof with a mantle finish. The starting holds were quite unique and the line would go fairly quickly until one of the key holds broke during the increasingly violent attempts. Now it was game on with the problem becoming considerably harder. A two finger lock for one hand with a bad crimp for the other was enough to just get your feet on the steep wall. Throw high with your right hand to a goodish hold, catch it and the crux is done but the moves through the nose and the final mantle will make you work for the grade. Unusual for this area and definitely worth a repeat for the hard girls and boys out there.


Dangle Dyno (V7**)  First Ascend Roman and Second ascend with torches by Cameron.

 

 

Roman 14 December 2020

Go here for more photos: Blueys Week December 2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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