On a cold winters day we decided to visit the crumbling Bells line of road after the floods had wreaked havoc on the old concrete architecture. We were hoping for some sun on the crag but the temperature in general was fierce. We were joined by a motley crew assembled from Canberra with Janaeya and Will and Sydney with Roman, Jack and Tulia. After many years the walk into the crag is becoming more enjoyable with the Grose valley vistas clearing your mind from the city mayhem. Descending into the canyon, the far left side of Arrivals was briefly in the sun in the morning so we warmed up in the limelight:
Cock Blocker (21**) shame about the name its a great climb that deserves better. Good jugs wit some reaches to a final mantle crux hint traverse left at the top.
Jigger Jeff (23"") but we did not do the roof and used the anchors on Keith (21**) to rap. Very nice crimpy moves on the face also a good warmup probably about 21 for the face only without the roof.
The sun was gone after the early morning hour and the opposite side of the canyon was ablaze with glorious golden rays: sunnyshide was getting all the glory so we moved stragiht across:
Troc de I'lle (24**) means 'island banter' apparently - sure why not. This was meant to be the 23 'Searching for the light' but it turned out to be on th left of this one. Hard to distinguish routes here. Tulia came very close to her first grade 24. Will sent nicely.
When the spirits are calling (21**) actually not bad deserves more ascents but not easy for the grade.
The dreaming void (25***) really two bitches of one enormous line. A very nice 24 to the full reset ledge then cruxy moves to a hard to read redpoint crux before a pumpy finish. Amazing climb, came close to the onsight but missread the cruxy sequence. I will be back.
Reality Disfuntion (25***) another lap sooo good. A steep roof boulder problem guards the start followed by a long run on jugs to a horizontal fist crack for the final rest. Then a tough boulder sequence to the anchor. Superb strategic climbing across an imposing exposed cliff. One of the best 25s in the mountains.
La Realite N'Exist Pas (28***) Roman second shot after an exploratory lap - made it look like a walk in the park.
The shadows closed in quick when we lost the sun over the Arrival ridge and temperatures plummeted in the shade, it was sunnyside no more about 16:30 time to head to the Archibald for a woodfire pizza. |
