Zanzibar welcomed us with a giant mug of coffee early on Saturday morning when the shadows were still cold. After a very rainy Friday, Jack had convinced us to go climbing to the Central Coast regardless. One of his mates Ryan also turned up and Laurence was going to meet us a the mythical place that is Wards Hill. It still looked the same after all those years. Time and tide may not wait for any men but rock is much more patient and it will always wait for you. Our last visit wa 5,8,10 years ago who knows? But it was marred by a mosquito infestation. Today was different, winter with sun straight on the cliff nicely dry and perfect friction. The hard classics are still all there waiting ever so patient for us to get our act together no matter how long it will take. This crag is very specific - not much in terms of warmups - just pick one of the many hard three star classics and get on with it. See you next time - some day. Walking in was incredibly nostalgic until Black Panter shook me out of my sentimentality.
Centerpiece (18*) not bad a couple of nice slots with some small crimps
Black Panther (21**) everyone's worst nightmare warmup. Desperate sloping holds to hidden half-way rest jug. Take a deep breath and traverse left for the final crimpy crux sequence. You are pumped out of your brain but you are warmup up. Move on to the main wall.
Tiny Dancer (19*) always wanted to try one of the three lines in the massive pocketed cave, capped by a huge choss roof. Short and incredibly sweet, the grade will depend on which pockets you use. I did it like a 23 or V4 boulder problem, but I am sure there are better ways. Couldn't really convince anybody else to do this LOL.
Will O'the Wasp (23***) Amazing line up a blank face with good pockets. Gain the ledge and pull into a rest underneath the proud soaring areter. Fantastic jugge moves to a final stace. Move unto the face for the crux undercling move. Mantle carefully. Nice sent by Jack.
Lactic Acidosis (24***) this is the one to come for. I have had nightmares about these moves from years ago when it taught me a good lesson in humility. Just because you can climb 25/26 does not matter a bit here. The bouldery shoulder start move will get your heart rate right where it needs to be. The move into the lower balance crux - absolutely unique - establish yourself on the slab and gentle move into the undrcling - reach high and you will be 10 inches short of the jug - let go and catch it on the way up. Relax and slow down your hear rate - time for a couple of easy jugs with bad feet. the Midway point has a hug gaston for your right hand of good but low jugs. Move on for a few more jugs until the final shake out. You are now at the boulder problem that guards the path to glory. The only way I could work it, is by gaining the deep three finger pocket with your left hand. Stretch high and reach to a bad crimp with your right hand - here I need to do a finger shuffle and swap to my left hand - tricky but keep stable with your feet. Bring the right hand back down to the deep three finger pocket and raise your foot just a bit. Pull hard to a faint high sloper-pocket - stabilise and hit the top rail. You are done. It does not get much more classic anywhere. Unique positions with amazing moves and a lot of headgames.
That was about it for our short winter days. Just enough time left for Laurence to practise the crux reach on Will O the Wisp and then we called it a day. We will be back sooner this time since the projects here are excellent and need some more attention. |