1 July 2021 the stars aligned, and we were able to pull off another rare visit to Berowra. When was the last time? One or two years ago - time seems of very little relevance when it comes to rock - it will still be there waiting for you mostly unchanged - unlike you. The years have been kind - to the rock at least and the classics were still brimming with friction. Conditions were excellent in the winter sun after it dried out the early morning dampness left behind from the morning fog. Occasionally a filled bucked would reveal a pool of refreshing water licking gently at your chalked fingertips - nothing too bad really.
Uncustomary we started at the other end walking past the remarkable PostiveApeFactor to Bullet Hole Wall.
What followed was a brief melodramatic rampage across the nostalgic kinglines at Berowra from yesteryear - for some of the best flogging dealt out in a long time. Partners in crimp included Jason, Jack, Laurence and a few other players who we lost amidst the crimpfest of Bill Collins.
Mental Fatigue 18*** still a classic after all those years.
Fox Sox Pox 18*** oftern underrated classice with steel rods sticking out like a via ferrata. hard moves over the initial overhang with too many pockets to choose from, the pleasant to the top if you can find the jugs.
Looks Poxable (21***) super easy fun climbing to the horizontal break about 13 and watch out for the golden orb spider in the pockets.
Bill Collins (25***) on Blackboard Wall, 24 to 25 says the guide but its an old school classic from the Mike Law 80s era. Reviews say it all crimpy, reachy and painful. Jack has his heart set on this one so I went for an exploratory lap. Ouch, amazing edges with very delicate footwork. Once you are off the deck four longish cruxes through crimp invested territory with almost no rest. Amazing probably the crimp kingline of Berowra. Felt possible but you only get two shots max and then your skin supply runs dry.
Yesterday's Hero (19**) needed something easy to rest the fingers after Bill Collins so this classic with a bouldery start and easy finish brought the stoke back again.
It was time to try some of the hard manufactured classics in the Soap Cave:
Raisin'Hell (26*) by consensus more like 27/28 but almost fully manufacture. The crux sloper start shut me down quickly. Then the manufactured slot felt good until the notorious mono pocket. Surprised that my strong middle finger would not fit any more. It used to so pretty much new that it was game over. Felt like visiting an old friend.
Dingo (24**) Short and sweet with some enhanced pockets. Gain final good pocket with right hand and go for nasty high left hand gaston: Crux through for the final jug. Very powerful sustained boulder problem. Couple of lower carrot bolts are character building. Jack hurt his back on the final through so take care.
After this character-building blast into the past it was time for something a little easier:
Ladder of Gloom (19***) perennial classic kingline and must do for every newbie. The balancy traverse into the rout followed by the crux: reach, undercling or dyno depending on your height is followed by the ladder of jugs to glory.
The sun had disappeared now and the dew point was inching closer with threatening skies but there was time for a couple more:
Luv Handles (20**) Classic juggy arete climbing with some truly amazing chicken heads. Initial sloper traverse is quite demanding so preclip and take care not to hit anything.
Eccles (20**) beginner to Intermediate crimp classic and great finger warmup for Bill Collins. Description is accurate: "Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing." End of day lap felt hard - fell trying to work out reachy middle crux, but Laurence sent in style.
The day finished with a final lap on the impossible Bill Collins. Have a luck here to get a taste of things: Jack on Bill Collins
More photos are HERE.
