Will and Roman were supposed to follow James and Roman Junior down to Mount Buffalo but committments caught up with us and we did have quite as much time as the youngsters. We decided to head halfway and spend a bit of time at Bungonia instead. After dreaming about it for years I was quite excited to get my hands on some local limestone. To our surprise the campground around New Year was quite busy despite the forcast of rain. After a quick look down into the gorge from the Skybridge type lookout, with the sandstone mine in the background destroying all illusions of unspoiled wilderness - we set off on the customary Red track for serious hickers only. It is as steep and loose as its reputation but it gets you into the slot canyon quickly in about thirty minutes. La Nina meant that it had been raining for days and it came as no surprise that the water level was high in a canyon that is customarily dry for most of the year. Most of the warm up easy routes on the South Wall - Little Thai Wall like: A Tufa to Far 22**; Gilding the Lily 22** and Lame Duck 20* we could not start due to the high water level so Will picked higher Grounds and suggested Phantom Menace Wall (Big Greenie Ledge) with its selection of moderate clasics.
The only problem was that with all our warmups under water we had to start up the access bitch which is usually Polenta Pumper 25**. To make matters a little more interesting, I had downloaded PDF copies of all maps and routes onto my phone and then told Will that I will leave it behind and to bring his. So we just guess our way up and picket White Zombies (27**) instead since it looked less intimidating LOL. This pitch saw some of the best aid climbing efforts we both had done in a long time and it was quite fun in the end. Arriving at the ledge above again it was a guessing game of what is what and we ended up doing:
The Force (22**) amazing tufas all the way but keep something in the thank for the last move - it is the crux waiting for signs of weakness.
Jabba the Shot (20**) without the roof finish which is Death Starred 23***. Excellent Tufa climbing again with a nice crux. Access to these routes are from a stance about 5m right and up (hidden Ringbolt belay) from the main belay point further down.
See this page for a great 3D introduction to Bungonia.
After rapping back to the ground from the high ledge we wanted to take a closer look at Siblings of the Sun for a future visit and found several sport climbs hidden in the jungle:
Andrew's Arete (24**) An alternative way to get to the top of the Siblinings spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Great climbing and eases off a lot after the first bolt. (21 if you pull the first two bolts) The route takes the sharp bolted arête 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1, starting on its right side then switching to the left.
The Bridge to Total Freedom (25***) first pitch only at 22*** 20m. Smashing warm-up. Overhanging layback flakes up to hard moves then easy slab to DBB. 5 bolts plus threads and gear. An easier but lower quality varient traverses in from the left on the huge flake.
It was getting late in the afternoon and we still wanted to have a look at the majestic boulder fiels so we decided to bail and walk out the other way. Will said its not much longer and a lot more gentle (sigh). Crossing the boulder field turn out tricky since water was gushing about everwhere but it is a place that I would love to return to with the bouldering crew. We wandered a long the river bed for quite some time and then walked passed the exit ridge: poorly marked with an upward arrow and two large red dots. Are maybe it wasn't marked poorly ? Will was right the exit ridge was much more comfortable to walk out on with no loose rocks and it took us abou one hour to the campground. The tought of beer entered our minds on the way out, but there were a few obstacles. Times was getting away from us now, it was a pulic holiday and there was no pub with in 50km. But there is a thing about a challenge like this! While Will was racing along to find reception on the way out since it had just started to rain in the early nightsky, I found a pub in Wingello some 40 minutes away, it was 19:50 and when I called the pub the lovely lady told me that the kitchen closed at 20:30 sharp. So we had a race on our hands to make it to the cold ones. Will was determined and shaved off several minutes from our arrival time to let us loose on the only pub still working in the Southern hemisphere: the Bundanoon Hotel. It was cold now almost icy and the warmth of the pub sparked new and bright ideas. Shall we stay or go back to our wet and soggy campgroung - It was difficult decision for sure? ...... |
