Narrow Neck May 2012

Sublime Point 2012

Kiwi-BLUEYS 2010

Castle Hill 2009

Mont 2009

WhungeeWheengee 2008

CitySpring Cycle2007

Mt.Selwyn 2007

Easter 2007

Seal Rocks 2007

Romans40

Mt.Selwyn2006

Six Foot Track

Mount Victoria

Easter 2006

It was time to go back to our long-term bucket list and visit one of the many magic places that are a little more difficult to get to due to their location or remoteness. Mount Buffalo in Victoria with its trad lines cracks and slabs it a unique place that has been on the must-visit list for many years. It could wait no longer. With Will willing and the twins Chris and Roman keen we decided to just go for it and see what we can do. The inspiration for this trip came from an equally random trip by James and Roman when they sent Where Angels Fear to Tread (17***) not that long ago. Their trip and stories finally got us to venture out to explore the vast expanse of alpine granite.

Day1 The Horn and Dreamworld: The seven-hour approach from Sydney went relatively smooth and we checked into to the Big4 caravan park in the early afternoon. The day was still young, and we drove straight up to the highest lookout point at Mount Buffalo – the Horn has an elevation of 1723 meters and a distinct alpine feeling to it. What is even better the lookout is surrounded by excellent climbing in all directions with panoramic views of Victoria. But first it was time for a quick introduction to granite climbing at Dreamworld.
Spaceman spiff (18**) a gently introduction to granite in full afternoon sunlight. Fully bolted it is seriously out of character with the rest of Mount Buffalo so don’t get too comfortable here.
This is not our land (20**) spicy lead with few carrots and a couple of ridiculous slings around bad horns. too much for the brain at this early stage.

Just past the main wall on the left hidden behind a boulder we found the hard sport climb we have been searching for.

Gondwanaland 29*  amazing looking line for the boys next time. Short and bouldery but modern sport climbing fully bolted. We will put this one on the bucket list for next time.

On the other side of the main wall is a remarkable wall with protrusions that are in the shade on both sides of a gully - amazing looking rock but we ran out of time. We will get back there on our next trip.

“The power of our imagination makes us infinite.”

Day2 The Horn and Cathedral was our first full day of climbing at the Cathedral we got up early and headed straight back up to the highest point at Mount Buffalo called the horn. Before embarking on our first big adventure we decided to warm up at the shorter routes near the actual lookout.

Peroxide Blond 20*** balancy arete with very spaced carrot bolts. Brings you to the highest lookout point with tourists watching from above - amazing.

The Pintle left hand variant 16*** Great warm up on good geat and Chris's first trad lead.

Hoi Polloi 16** great introduction to Buffalo slab climbing. Will extended the line to a crack below called Buttocks 10*.

Once the warmups were completed and the trad skills warmed up it was time for something a little more challenging at the majestic cathedral

Maharaja 17*** the Classic all trad multipitch line up a series of cracks climbed by Will and Chris. This was Chris’s first all trad multipitch climb and the last bouldery slab problem without protection keeps the adrenalin pumping until the very end.

Sultan 20*** the kind multipitch line up the cathedral. All natural but we found two bolts. First pitch is the crux corner with big gear mostly 3-5 camelots but you can sneak in a number 1 and 2 as well. Second pitch is an easy but very airy traverse across the void to gain the second line of flakes/cacks. Third pitch with steep layaways and underclings around a series of flakes on good gear to the final ledge. Pitch 4 the slap boulder problem of Maharaja - just when you thought its all over.

Once again it was getting late on the alpine plateau, 7pm but the sun was still high in the sky with the valley below already in the shadow, it was time to race down to the township before the kitchens close.

Day3 The Gorge
Amongst all the different climbing area’s at Mount Buffalo one reigns supreme with its long complex aid routes over several hundred meters long. It was our first look at two of the most classic long lines in Australia: Ozymandian and Where Angels Fear to Tread. After Roman and James had climbed Where Angels fear to thread (17***) a few weeks back and scared us to the bones with their story it was time for Will and Roman to familiarise ourselves with the high gorge before committing to this famous expedition. The view from the high goreg are astoundingly breathtaking and the walls high and majestic.  For this day we choose the Summit Rim area for its close proximity to the lookouts and the supposedly easy access.

Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana blasé 16*** A great warm up layaway flack with a littl bit of crack climbing to get the juices flowing.

Vertical Tai Chi 22** We were supposed to climb Home James (20***) with its obscure description and after we confirmed the rap station with the local BAC guide who was setting up porter ledges for keen tourists, we raped down the choke stone to the route. Instead of Home James we ended up on Vertical Tai Chi which was okay except for one particularly vicious crux slab move that was very hard to unlock.

Banana milkshake rule 23* good hard slabbing up a parallel line to the much easier Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana blasé.

For our next visit we should try Ring a Ding Ding 24** on the next face. I was able to find a very old classic video from 1985 of the Climb here: Free Climbing Part 2 - Hard Rock Climbing

Day4 The Hump
It was our last full day of climbing and the body was feeling a little worse for wear after four days of trad climbing. So we wanted something not too demand – little did we know that 18 is a special grade at Buffalo.

Initiation 18***  One of the best all trad multipitch climbs in Australia. Let me qualify that: except one bolt on the slab traverse, but without that nobody would attempt this climb. Four pitches long, but can be done in less either with 3 or 2 depending on how much rope drag you can endure.  The first pitch is a steep layaway corner on fingertips with good nut placements – it is one of the cruxes of the route. The angle eases off after the first ten meters and it turns into a magnificent gentle layaway flake to the first belay at about 35 meters. A sentry box provides a safe hanging belay. A short overhanging juggy section brings you to the traverse pitch. The first crack ends here and you stuff all the gear you have left into the end of the crack:  hold your breath and start the slap traverse over the void – don’t look down and don’t slip.  After about 5 meters you get to the only bolt that protects a giant swing if you slip off – clip it gingerly and move on for another 5 meters of slabing to the next crack.  A nice belay corner provides panoramic views of the last hand crack soaring high above in a delightful arch to the top. This is pure pleasure with perfect hand jams and any gear you like. Top out and enjoy the 360 degree views of the alpine plateau.

The sun was still intense even though it was already 6pm by the time we all topped out. Opposite the road is a single giant boulder with a formidable single hairline fracture running straight through the middle, the gear is minimal and placing it on just off-vertical slab takes serious commitment.

The Sentinel 21*** An amazing hairline crack bisects this ten-meter high ‘pebble’. Shallow so gear is hard to place and it is very steep. I had my heart set on it, but seeing it up close it is a very scary lead on minimal gear – I pulled the plug after much deliberation. We shall be back for this one.

For our next trip to the Hump - there is an area behind the cathedral clearly visible from the Initiation called the Crack of Anguish Area. We looked at some of the cracks from the distance and there are some real gems for our next trip.
Also we need to check out Cross Purpose Wall with Cross Purpose 20* just before you get to the Initiation.