Early summer in Sydney saw the arrival of LaLa Niña and the rain never seemed to stop. After the long Covid confinment daily downpoors was the last thing we needed to get back into some outdoor climbing. Luckily there are some nice caves in the Sydney region as a bad weather option and to escape the frenetics of the local climbing gyms. One of the best - read: meanly overhanging, coarse bomb-proof sandstone as steep as newbies learning curve, with probably one of the best glory jug collection in the Sydney basin along a truly massive overhanging cave right in the middle of nowhere.
With a typical forcecast in early December of - possible showers early morning to late afternoon with rainfall forecast mimicking a cryptic crossword - you never know what you gonna get. So Jack called it and roped in Anthony. I was keen as a spring chicken. It's a bit of a drive, but by far the best option with omnicrone making the rounds in the local gyms. I arrived early in the parking lot near the short walk through the bush. The boy looking out the window in his pyjamas appeared curious as I took off for a stroll through the grassy bush. The wildflower were out in force after the rain. I snapped some pictures and then Jack pulled in with new bounty: a brand new 70m rope and shiny new quickdraws - it was going to be a tough day. Anthony arrived shortly after and we sauntered past the descarted car ruins reminders of days gone by - an ancient past when insurance fraud was a sure ticket to extra cash. A short walk and we stood at the very top of the giant cave with panoramic views of the abyss far below. Circumnavigating the rim of the cave leads down towards the main Woolwash cave overhanging by some ten meters and an impressive scale that challenges most modern ropes. Finding a suitable warmup here for the creaky old joints was our first obstacle.
Negative Funk 21** (Jack picked this one and it was the best warmup spanking I got in a long time. Probably pulled on more draws than the enrire previous year. I counted three cruxes including a do or die lunge of the deck and several hammy destroying mantles. It was after all a great warm up.) After that we needed something to bust our confidence
Grand Theft Auto 19* A lot better than the first one but with an annoying crux slab move due to some wetness of to the side. We cranked a lot harder than expected from a warmup.
The Junkyard Dog 24*** We had enough from these supposed warm-ups and it was time to sample one of the classics of the area. If you like roofs then it does not get much better in Sydney. This monster has it all - early crux section to a no hands rest to adjust your undies, then blast out the horizontal jug rail with bad feet to a final crux move, then jugs to glory. This is were pitch one stops but the story continues and if you have some gas left just keep going on the extension for a three-star 26.
Bogan Direct 26*** If you are a boulderer this is your climb. Short and punchy from beginning to end. The lower fridge hugging section is amazing and leads to a massive jug. this is were the crux awaits you. Jack found a nice meatrap variation on the jug to reach the deep two finger pocket. Switch on the heelhock on the jug and through your right hand into the gast-on. The top section looked okay but we could not get the higher draw on so we will have to come back for this one. Watch the Beta Video here: Bogan Direct
Communal Spoon 24*** Intriguing name with an actul spoon at the start to boggle the mind. Probably my favorite climb of the day. Glory jugs (mostly) lead to a final powerful boulder problem. Lots of heel-hooks to keep the weight of your feet and keep your arms fresh for the end: two crimps to a dyno for a semi-good jug then a sindepull to a crossover and reach for the top. One of the best steep climbs at Woolwash.
Short Sharp Loud 25** It was getting late in the afternoon but we were keen for one more adventure. This was a beautiful looking line: bouldery but not too long. Steep jug rail with good heelhooks again lead to a bucket hold. This is wher the first boulder problem starts - a hideous undercling perhaps to the next jug above the lip. Good holds on the lip but very nasty topout with two variations: escape left on a mean looking mantle or up and right on some of the worst slopers you can imagine. I was begging for mercy after a few tries.
Check out my Junk 23** There is a bunch of short bouldery roof crossings to finish of your day if you like to get rid of the last ounce of body tension left in your system. Short but lots of fun to empty the tank. Anthony managed his first outdoor 23 and stuck the cut-loose move nicely to finish on the mantle in style.
The rain never started or did it? Surrounded by steepness and entranced by gravity - we just did not notice and focused on the solitary moment. We had the cave all to ourselves that day - how strange and wonderful? It is still now waiting for us to return......
