Narrow Neck May 2012

Sublime Point 2012

Kiwi-BLUEYS 2010

Castle Hill 2009

Mont 2009

WhungeeWheengee 2008

CitySpring Cycle2007

Mt.Selwyn 2007

Easter 2007

Seal Rocks 2007

Romans40

Mt.Selwyn2006

Six Foot Track

Mount Victoria

Easter 2006

The trip of a lifetime, bucket lists, hundred places to visit before you die et etc. there are many concepts like these flying around echoing the carpe diem mentality of our modern consumer cultures. But is it really possible? Or are these just self-deluding flights of fancies? We shall see below as three years of Covid induced postponement and confinement unravel into a mega climbing trip with the mind still boggling away, and the body in a state of jet lag induced shock. Yet it did happen after all the obstacles were removed patiently one by one and the doors finally opened to our European tour de force. Now relinquished to the recesses of memory, no longer part of our reality but still exerting a powerful grip on our presence the trip was overwhelming and sparked a new chapter in our lives. What happens from here on is anybody’s guess but one thing is for certain: this is - after all that happened - a new beginning of some kind that will need to be explored a little further.

With that in mind, Billy Joel was right: Vienna waits for you! It has been some seven years for me, with Covid thrown in for good measure, but we made it. Long in the planning stage a motley crew grew in size and stoke: Andrew, Chris, Jack, Roman made up the core climbing team and many more to come later.
We spend a couple of days in Vienna to reacquaint with the family and sample the local cuisine, but also managed to visit the local gyms. Two of our favourites are the Blockfabrik in downtown Vienna and the hug Kletterhalle Wien, similar in size to St.Peters in Sydney. Both are well worth a visit when you are in town. After acclimatising we went on our way to Innsbruck for our first climbing destination. The same day we arrived in our brand-new car we went straight away to check out the Dschungelbuch crag near the Martinswand only a few minutes drive from downtown Innsbruck. Unfortunately, rain arrived shortly after and we only managed a short session before checking into our hostel Meiningen in downtown Innsbruck. It was getting late, but we could not help ourselves and walked the 20min to the massive Kletterzentrum Innsbruck where the world cup would take place in a few weeks time and the world’s elite was already busy training.

“You should sit in meditation for 20 minutes a day, unless you’re too busy, then you should sit for an hour.”

With that in mind, Billy Joel was right: Vienna waits for you! It has been some seven years for me, with Covid thrown in for good measure, but we made it. Long in the planning stage a motley crew grew in size and stoke: Andrew, Chris, Jack, Roman made up the core climbing team and many more to come later.
We spend a couple of days in Vienna to reacquaint with the family and sample the local cuisine, but also managed to visit the local gyms. Two of our favourites are the Blockfabrik in downtown Vienna and the hug Kletterhalle Wien, similar in size to St.Peters in Sydney. Both are well worth a visit when you are in town. After acclimatising we went on our way to Innsbruck for our first climbing destination. The same day we arrived in our brand-new car we went straight away to check out the Dschungelbuch crag near the Martinswand only a few minutes drive from downtown Innsbruck. Unfortunately, rain arrived shortly after and we only managed a short session before checking into our hostel Meiningen in downtown Innsbruck. It was getting late, but we could not help ourselves and walked the 20min to the massive Kletterzentrum Innsbruck where the world cup would take place in a few weeks time and the world’s elite was already busy training.

“Always follow your heart but take your brain with you”

The forecast for the next few days was rain again and we decided to leave Innsbruck until better weather arrived. Jack tabled the idea of heading South to Italy where eternal sunshine reigns. So off we went on a whim – a flight of fancy - to one of the most amazing limestone cliffs in the world. We moved on Wednesday 8 June, leaving early for our five hour trip South to the Italian Rivera. Finale Ligure was our destination, right on the Mediterranean with endless limestone cliffs to explore. Exiting the alps via the Dolomites was a site to behold and we literally drove out of the rain and into the sunshine. There are literally hundreds of crags strewn across the coastline most with panoramic views of the ocean. On our first day we went straight to the jewel of the area Grotta dell'Edera and if you asked me what my favourite climbing spot in the world is – this one would be hard to beat. The crag is as unique as it gets and finding it is not easy. You will need some time to locate the hidden cave that leads through some serious subterranean climbing to the exit into the grotto proper, but it is worth every second. The grotto is more like a giant shaft with limestone bridges over the top. There is climbing all around its 360 degree perimeter and the quality of the limestone tufas is world-class. As the sun rotates throughout the grotto clockwise we climbed counter-clockwise avoiding the shaft of light trying to fry us without success.

Bombolo 6b*** incredible three dimensional warmup climbing up into a high shaft. Touch the sunbeams up high and rappel back down again into the shaft.

Remember me as a friend 6b**  wide upper grove with stemming and some serious pocket pulling. This was my introduction to limestone pockets and it was one of the best sufferfests I had in a long time – felt incredibly hard for the grade.

Rank Xerox 6c*** has everything you wish for: starts with a crack to perfectly pocketed wall moving into tufas to climactic jug through roof. Amazing.

El Diablo 7b*** chosen by Roman Junior and one of the best routes I did in Italy. Tufas through roof with power-endurance problem.

Lubna 7b*** probably the most aesthetic wall in the grotto. 25m of purely vertical resistance climbing with several hard cruxes thrown in. I rested my way up gracefully and Chris send second shot. Incredible, I would come back just for this one.

Mosaiko 8a  same start as El Diablo but adds a giant roof traverse to the finish, Roman Js first 8a of the trip.

The grotto will be hard to forget it is one of the most unique climbing spots I have ever seen.
Compared to climbing in Innsbruck, Finale Ligure was incredibly hot and climbing in the sun would be nearly impossible, so we searched for caves and shade amidst the huge number of hidden craglets. Our second day in Finale was spent at a well hidden crag Falesia del silenzio inferiore which was epic to find.

Ciccia Baliccia 6b* a very tough introduction to the area, my body was not ready for this kind of punishment. Sustained pockets on slightly overhanging wall with crux slab at the end.

Scherzetto 6a+  small roof to start with tricky move and good headwall with sustained moves. Body was still not in the groove.

Siddartha 7b***  this was the line of the crag.  Amazingly spaced huge limestone huecos with big moves between them – spectacular. Slightly leftish traverse to crux diabolical exit move. We threw everything we had at this thing, but it refused to yield to us…… We well get our revenge one fine day.

Pas the bloc 7c+ ***  Roman managed to send this amazing line on his second shot.

Alicante 6b*** Amazing corner climb with crux finger pocket exit move – ouch.

By early afternoon the shade relented and the sun started beaming onto the immaculate limestone. We decided it was time to head to the beach. Time was of the essence and Finale was never part of our trip but it turned out to safe us from the weather and sent us in the right direction. Next was another location forged by the gods of rock.

“Change is inevitable– except from a vending machine”

Driving along the Italian Rivera and punching across to France, then slightly inland, to arrive at a magical rocktop generally known as Ceuse. Céüse is world-famous for its long, sustained hard and steep routes with the speciality on the menu being what the French call ‘resistance.’  Then there's the location: the cliffs are perched on top of a 2000m mountain with majestic view of the south of France. We were lucky to score the only ‘chalet’ in the campground. The owners mama was surprised to see us and gladly allowed us to stay. Amidst a sea of campers, it was refreshing to wallow in the luxury of a bed. We arrived in Ceuse on Saturday 11th of June and were lucky to score the 4 person cottage at Camping des Guerins with the friendly owner Stephanie Boujeant. Calling the number on the website did not work so we just turned up and got lucky. Next time send an email to reserve the cottage via the website. Cost was 50 euros per night. Camping cost 7.40 euros. You can order breakfast croissant and baguet from the campground which doubles as a boulangerie, delivered fresh every morning. The local fromagery is a short stroll away, but eating out is generally difficult around Sigoyer, with the exception of the amazing Rock & Roll pizza but be careful it only serves some days. There is a large supermarket 30 min drive down the hill in Talard were we stoked up on supplies.

Ceuse is unique in many ways, but it is the ‘walk’ that will humble even the most seasoned outdoor enthusiasts. Keen as a bunch of lost Aussies we headed up to the cliff early in the morning and had it all to ourselves for most of the day. Wondering where is everyone. Eventually they all turned up after 3pm.  Ceuse requires a serious change in lifestyle. You climb till it gets dark, sleep in late, eat late, and don’t go to the cliff until cooler temperatures arrive in the late afternoon. We learned that the hard way.

Sunday 12 June first day at the cliff

Marlou 6b 20m good introduction to Ceüse. Felt hard for a warm-up.

El Daü 6c+ 25m hard face climb. Roman and Chris

Papyrus 6a+ 25m good warm-up felt hard.

Lapunerie 7b several shots

Carte blanche 8a 20m Roman 2nd shot, several shots for Chris.

Monday 13 Jun

Les Colonnettes 7c+ 25m Roman

San Jones Pecos 7b+ Jack and Chris tried this smooth blue streak with the crux finish.

Operation houblon 7b+ Roman half way sharp pockets

Lapinerie 7b 20m vertical slab climbing to full rest then step juggy roof to crux lunge. Roman and Chris flash and the Jack, Andrew and Roman S. fought there way to the finish dyno - like a Blueys classic.

Beau movement sur fond bleu 7a+ hard vertical slab climbing with monos and final pocket slab crux

Petite monster 6a 20m nice warm up funnel

A Patrick 6a 20m good easy warm-up.

Tuesday 14 rest day at Lake and Gap shopping trip. Wed. 15 day 3 in Ceüse.

Coup de Blues pour Dom 6b. Nice warm up with one tricky section and pumpy undercut layback finish. Not easy.

Super Mario 6b+ nice warm up with two slabby sessions.

Blocage violent 7b+ 30m. Amazing pocket resistance climbing.

Dolce vita 8a+ Roman 2 shots on micro crimpers with 2 serious boulders.

Zagreb 6c long sustained big moves steep at the end classic

Thu. 16 last day in Ceüse

Comme Des Phoques 6b+ *  This was supposed to be a warm up but like all the easier routes it was tough as nails. Don't do it.

L'Errance d'une Passion 7c*** Roman J. said it was easy and I should give it a try, bad mistake, with hard shoulder move crux to two finger pocket. Roman sent second go.

Dolce Vita 8a+***  One of the tougher numbers that repelled every suitor while we were there. Apparently very tough for the grade with 2 v8 boulders in it. Roman sent first go on second day.

Blocage Violent 7b***  several more tries by everyone, but le resistance climbing style kicked our butts.

Fri. 17 transition to Chamonix: Like everything in Europe, Chamonix was only a short drive from Ceuse and it only took about 4 hours to escape the heat of the Ceuse plateau and arrive in the alpine world of Chamonix village.  It is amazing how much you can get done if you have your own car. We left in the morning and by lunch we had checked into the hospitable Vert Lodge right next to Chamonix’s local climbing wall. There was much to do but the weather Gods where similing on us so we begrudgingly paid the 60Euros to take the cable car up the Aguile de Midi, to the all year glacial entry point to Mount Blanc. On the way up we saw the caravan of climbers ascending the Cosmic Arete and the drooling got worse.  All we had on us were some sport climbing quick draws and tht meant “no gear and no idea.’  From the top of the mountain Digital Crack was laughing at us but we had not crampons to get to its base. There were climbers all around us but we only had thongs and shorts as our trusty Aussie equipment.  It was torture looking at all the bumblies around us with loads of gear but we vowed to come back while we played tourist at one of the most remarkable alpine vistas in the world. On the way down we discovered the hidden Blue Lake and decided to go for a quick swim. Was it not for a passing American tourists warning we would have missed the last cable car facing a three hour downhill walk. Life is funny sometimes, instead we found ourselves at the local  Kebab joint having dinner with Briana who was in the midst of her alpine training course. Late that night over beer we decided to move on and no face another torturous day without proper climbing gear in Chamonix. Instead the miniature verticality of one of the world’s top boulder spots was waiting for us.

Saturday the 18th July we transitioned to Magic Woods near Ausserferrera, where the campground was overflowing and we decided instead to stay a few kilometers away in Splügen, an enchanting little Swiss town well away from the maddening weekend boulder crowds. It was afternoon by the time we had checked in and navigated the crazy peak hour traffic, but we could not help ourselves and drove down for a quick boulder at the famous Bruno boulder where the Neverending story is located. There were no boulder pads for hire and the campground was bustling, but we found a few stashed pads in the forest which did the job just fine. We started at the very beginning with a few test drives on:  Neverending Story (1,2,3) is located (8a+, 8b+ or 9a), but discovered very quickly that the style and rock quality was nothing we had ever seen before – it was time to return to our humble beginnings. Mental note for the future – climb from Monday till Thursday in the preseason (June) and avoid the weekend.

Magic buttress 6a good warm-up but high and we had no pads. (Boulder 4,p.25)
Bam 6a fat crack easy warm-up (Boulder 5, p.25)
Star Man 6a+ good warm-up (Boulder 18,p.32)
Ziggy stardust 6b ver techy pyramids face.

La Dance 7b/c (boulder 3, p.24.) We met the Korean team and tried super hard start followed by an even harder mantle. Classic polished River granite.

Dropzone 7a+ (boulder 34, p.41) highball in alley where the notoriously dangerous Hoehenrausch 7b+ is located. Roman J's first highball sent at Magic Woods.
Roman did two more problems at a boulder perched high on the hill..

Sunday 19 first full day climbing in MagicWoods. Luckily, we were able to get our hands at some brand-new bouldering mats from the lovely Gasthaus Edelweiss near the River. Armed with three huge pads and a small backpack full of protein bars the forest was ours to take.

Fightclub 7c (Boulder 25 ,p.183) we spent some time working on the moves but it was too early.

Block Business 6a+ nice warm up behind Fightclub.

Stressman 7a (Boulder 13, p.177) we walked past this smooth face with technical moves.

Octupussy 8a (boulder 32, p.158) one of our main objectives but the moves were just too hard that day.

Grit de luxe 7a+ technical slab with mantle start highball with crux slot point.
Beach easy 5b nice warm down
Slip slop slap 7b+ only Roman worked out techy slab with crux hand match to underling and slot dyno.

We quickly realised that starting early and climbing through the heat of the day was not a smart move. Most seasoned climbers waited until late afternoon before they turned up for their sends but were just too keen. Monday the 20th June was our second full boulder day Magic Woods.  

Kalumbet 3b perfect Jam splitter easy highball warm up (Boulder10, p.121)
Pocahontas 4a middle
Kriegspfad 2c easy warm ups

Blue sky of mine 6a+ highball crimp ladder
Low crux with airy finish on jugs

Jurassic Park 6b (River Boulder 7 p.119)
Mushroom Wizard 6c+ very hard start and finish only Roman sent

Bblown away 7b one of the classic v8 higballs in Magic Woods. (Boulder 41,p.70)
Roman flash, Chris struggle send, Andrew so close.
Barbarella 6c+ hard crimp rail to Gaston. Found cheat side pull for right hand made it easier. (Boulder 40 p.69)

Magic Woods was all that you can imagine and more the forest is truly enchanting and strangely it was never crowded: people who entered the forest strangely appeared to vanish in the depths of the huge boulderfield. Sounds did not penetrate the labyrinthine maze of boulders and trees and there was a strange sensation of being all alone with the rock. I now know what all the fuss is about and can only say that it worth the hype, the next trip is already in the planning stage. Time in Magic Woods was not on our side since the World Cup was waiting for us back in Innsbruck, it would be one of the highlights to be there when the world’s best would meet to slug it out. So after a mere three days of bouldering (thankfully) we drove back the short three hours to Innsbruck.

Our first full day back in Innsbruck (Tuesday 21 July) was an absolute scorcher. We went straight back to the climbing gym where the first round of preselection took place and we watched some of the Aussies getting slaughtered in the mayhem of competition boulders. They fought hard and made us proud to be there. But the weather was too good to be outside and some of us decided to have another look at the Dschungelbuch. Since it was in the direct sun we discovered that further up there was a Grotto high up in the wall, which you could only access via a via ferrata. We decided to check it out and climbed 150 meters of the via ferrata to a hugh cave in the middle of this multipitch paradise. Believe it our not there was a platform with a sport climbing cave in the middle of the wall. Probably one of the most amazing climbing locations I have ever seen. The wall is known as MARTINSWAND and the huge cave is KAISER MAX GROTTE. After doing a few warm ups Roman J. choose a desperately overhanging route which could have been either Go-Tic (8a+) or Go-Thick (8b+) but the moves were excruciating and the oncoming storm meant we had to bail down the via ferrata as quickly as we could.

The heat was intense and we decided to cool down at the local Baggersee in Innsbruck. Due to world cup training we discovered that the gym was closed tomorrow so went for a late night session to the Kletterzentrum Innbruck gym. We did not finish till 23:00 O’clock so that we could rest the next day and watch the preliminary selections for the worldcup with the finals on Thursday the 23 July. I was time to leave the boys and head home to Vienna for my mum’s birthday.

Back in Vienna I had time to reminisce about the last four weeks of climbing in Europe. We had done a perfect loop starting in Innsbruck – heading south to Finale Ligure – across West to Ceuse – up north to Chamonix – back East to Magic Woods – and back down to join up again in Innsbruck. We covered some 3500km in our car on our rest days. Most climbing destinations were very remote and you definitely need a car. Having a group of five people was perfect and kept the costs down remarkably especially as far as food, petrol and accommodation was concerned. I can only thank Andrew and Jack for joining us on what for me was the trip of a lifetime. Just when one chapter was about to finish a new one began right away: welcome Callum, Fin and Jake and bon voyage.....