Mount Kuring-gai 2022

They say that time and tide wait for no men, but rock surely does. In fact, it is incredibly patient and months or even years later it will be there waiting, ready to give you another chance no matter how unfit you might be. You might not even deserve it, but once you turn up, you might find the same old splitter crack still waiting for you ever so tolerantly in the exact same place. During our latest rare meet up with Leo, Mark and Roman, after many months of planning - or so it seemed we finally made it happen. Right on one of those fine immaculate spring days in between the rainy ones, where the sky meets the bush halfway beyond nowhere refusing to yield to the horizon that was never meant to be. The blues and greens intermingle in a cacophony of color and sound. Or were they screams! Who knows or cares, we had Mark as our local guide through what seemed impenetrable bush with the occasional cairn to lead you astray. Only to arrive at one of the most incredible remote cliffs aptly named Lost and found Wall. There was nobody around pretty much all day just the three of us and acres of rock. Wait I forgot to mention the kayakers who appeared from nowhere and were as noisy as the sulphur-crested cockatoos. The river glistening far below us, but we scarcely noticed any of this, immersed, embedded and ensconced by intricate sandstone formations - forging our way through the vastness of rock sometime lunging sometimes pausing. Mark had been keen to show us the jewels at the Lost and Found wall, where despite the little bit of runoff after the rain we hit the jackpot and scored the perfect sun-drenched day.

Lost and Found Wall:

Foundlings 17**  great warmup

Farewell to Fear 19** classic spacious climb on jugs

Hello to Fear 24** traverse into slot from the right and punch through a series of crimps to rejong the jugs. very nice sequential boulder crux. Short but punchy.

Dendrobium 18* supposedly a warm-up but it looked a lot tougher than the grade. Nice lead Mark.

She who must be obeyed 20*** Probably the crag classic with very high start bolt, take care a skink lives in the cave below the first draw. Hard move to gain horizontal break before crux boulder problem awaits. Mark and Leo took the left side good undercling and reached or dynoed to the jug. Roman was too short so he stayed more to the right and used double underclings with a reach to the slopey ledge, which unlocked the move to the jug. Amazing crux and then joyous climbing along ramp and little rooflet to top. Amazing.

The sun hit the craglet just before noon and we enjoyed her visit after all the rain. It was nice to take your shirt off and enjoy the warm embrace, but the pleasure was short-lived and by early afternoon we decided to attempt the steep climb out while we still had a bit of power left in our legs. Not do not climb here in summer. The second crag was located much closer to the car and it was easier to empty out our tanks with the comfort of proximity.
Our second crag of the day was Motorcross Wall with short but very bouldery routes being the style at hand. We had slogged a full rack of trad gear around the bush all day, so there was one crack I had my heart set on.  After I grovelled up Pinky Shredder in the worst possible style - cheating were I could, resting were I couldn't, cursing and heaving my way up - nobody else was keen and I am still wondering why? 

Pinkie Shredder 18*  very tough for the grade: two distinct section - the lower half is the pinkie section but you can cheat a little to the right with decent holds - still very tough to gain the half way cave. Entry into the cave is super cruxy - don’t know how you would to this coming out of the pinkie crack.  Rest in cave and place Camelot 1 and 2. Second part opens with great hand jams supported by decent foot jams, but slowly getting more desperate and flaring at the top. You can use the ring bolts on the right side belonging to The Devil Inside (23) to lower off.

Heresey 22**  tough start to thin face moves a little slabby but doable. 

Goofy Foot 19*  not sure if this was the climb we did because it was on the left side of the wave.  Tough arete move with heelhocks - try not to barn door and gain better holds up right. easy finish. 

We were pretty roasted after this and 5pm was chiming so we decided to call it a day. Luckily the car was nearby as simply walking by this time felt a little tricky. The sun had gotten the better of us and we were firmly toasted, roasted, and covered in layers of grime and chalk. I can scarcely remember a better day and we have to do it again sooner than much later.

Memento vivere.

Roman 2021

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