Leo and Roman

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Reservoir Dogs and DGs- November 2022

Did I request thee, Maker, from my clay To mould me Man,
did I solicit thee From darkness to promote me?

A rare outing with Leo trying to pull him away from working too hard. We managed to escape early for a late Friday afternoon outing at Medlow Bath, where the Reservoir Dog Multipitch climbing area caters for some easily accessible chasing of the setting sun. A good place for clearing out the copwebs if you have not felt exposure for a while. This was followed on Saturday with an exploration of a rarely visited crag called DGs further down elong the escarpment from Medlow Bath. Below is the access description from the crag, which is probably why nobody goes there:

"Since this crag sees almost no traffic, there is no established track to the cliff. Expect a (short) but vigorous bushbash. Go to end of Delmonte Drive, and then bash down the hill to the crag (crossing a walking track about halfway down) . It's a bit tricky the first time, but once you know the way, it takes about 15 minutes."

I can only agree there is no starting trail from the turn-circle at the end of Delmonte Drive. We started right at the middle of circle facing the cliff and bush bashed down one of the faint lines through the bush which quickly disappears. But you hit the trail after about 100meters downhill so it is not too bad. Once you find the trail walk North (in the direction of the Hydro majestic) for about 50 meters. There is a very distinct footpath leading downhill with lots of cairns. We built a large cairn on the trail to mark the spot. This second part of the approach is much easier to follow and will get you to the cliff in 5-10min.

We went there on a Saturday to avoid the crowds and were rewarded with a day alone at this stunning cliff, as we watched the hordes of cars drive along the Megalong Valley road below to the tea rooms. Very blissful and the only interruption were our grunts as we worked our way up some of the excellent mid-range climbs dotted around several sectors.

     The funnel rap Finding those vertical crimps Leo rapping in The team
Leo on the sharp end Leo and Roman topping out Reservoir Dog Ledge with Panorama Medlow Bath Cliffline
Life is ours to be spent, not to be saved.
Leo on Defibrillator 23** Leo on First Mate 22** Storm over the Megalong with Delmonte Cave Finding the trail Delmonte Cave panorama

Norther Wall

Wee Dreams (20**) nice warmup, starts on big jugs through a little roof to get established on a ledge, then nice consistent long moves to the top. excellent.

Defibrilator (23***) same start but moves left and is a little steeper with one thin crux move about half way. Very nice

Calm my Beating Heart (22***) Steep start through a roof with jugs and an amazing horn-move to rest ledge than steep conistent climbing with a little crux in the middle - gorgeous climbing.

It was way after lunch time by the time the sun hit the crag and we moved across to Delmonte cave for some shade and a nice little breeze.

Hornblower (25**) mindbogglingly steep jug haul through vertical roof. Double leg rap around "the horn" for full rest and lots more jugs until they run out with a very difficult last move. I read the controversy about the anchor on the crag and was curious to try this amazing line. I got just what I deserved.

First Mate 22** At Middle Wall this climb felt hard on the first go. It starts with a little arete boulder problem to a shake-out in a horizontal break. Then nice consistent face climbing to a high crux.

We left the draws on to do a second lap on "First Mate" to try and make the moves a little smoother, but the afternoon thunderstorm hit us with the draws still up. It was bucketting down all around us with the occasional lightning strike but strangely the route staid completely dry. While climbing through the storm, when you looked up to your next move the raindrops hit your face but not a single drop hit the wall. Strangely we got wet while climbing on dry rock. A serene experience with the storm hauling around us. The way out was steep but quick, once you know where to go it is a great crag to come for a quiet climb with one of the most spectacular views of the Megalong Valley. Departing I wonder if I will ever get another chance to visit this magic place......

Roman 2022

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Copyright 2005 Dr.Roman Rosenbaum. All Rights Reserved.