Jimmy Clif
It had been ages since I visited this mini crag high above an exposed ledge with its own waterfall and two nice easy walls. It is a small area and we had it to ourselves.
Johnny's Jalopies (18***) One of the best warm-ups in this area nice and long with jugs everywhere.
Butt Nuggets (19**) Also a great steep warmup with nice rests and nothing to hard.
Mr Scumbag (18**) The description on the Crag is accurate: "A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall." Actutally two hard moves but not too bad if you are a boulderer.
Mr.Christmas Poo (20**) Off the exposed ledge, hard somewhat bouldery start to jugs. The fantastic moves getting better as you climb higher. The undercling move up high could be your "lifechanging experience."
It was way after lunch when we decided to head to one of the harder areas across the valley. The sun hit Porters Pass and a few parties had already settled in at the Sharon Stone area. We watched as we gobbled down our lunch and decided to visit the relatively unknown Dark Alley area just before Sharon Stone. Just before the final dark gully which is also called Oliver Stone is a serious of long slabs up a panoramic sanstone slab. These are the well bolted Kids slab. If you want your first lead climb this area is for you.
Oliver Stone and Dark Alley
Find the Positive (23***) Amazingly steep moves mostly jugs, I don't know why this did not get three stars? Lots of fun with nothing too hard.
Age Against the Machine (26***) Fantstic line with serveral steep hard moves to a rest position. Hard boulder crux with various solutions - we found a nice high left heelhook that did the job. Then steep pumpy to the finish. Amazing line.
It was Louise's turn after this and she did her first long lead at the kids wall. Close to 30 meters long with 15 bolts and a gentle angle. Well done. James was off to WaveWall and we decided to do a few more laps at Jimmy Cliffs:
Anal Leakage (19**) Pity about the name but nice climbing on somewhat strenous holds.
Hark! The.. (20**) Incredible moves on perfect rock
It was time to call it a day with the shadows getting a little longer and the wind picking up to send us on our way. A nice little catchup at one of the easiest and most accessible crags in the Blueys. We will be back. |
