It is one of those magic moments in everyone’s life, crossing the singular threshold – the 21st birthday – a rite of passage that can mark the transition into adulthood or something completely different?  The choice is yours and others still refuse to go there many years later. But in the end its just a cultural superstition or perhaps it isn’t – it all depends on your point of view. In any case, we decided to mark the occasion for Roman and Chris with a celebration of the vertical kind – a trip to the Blue Mountains were the spiritual easily meets the physical in a tour de force that rivals any ritualistic crossing into a new phase of life.

We booked Wildberg for our three-day retreat with Celebrity crags within easy walking distance and the pub even closer. On the way up we could not resist the alure of Bakery Patisserie Schwarz at Wentworth Falls, where poppy seat cakes and hot meat pies made a nice change from healthy breakfasts. James and Alex joined us on the way up and we decided that Porters Pass was our place of adventure for the first day. Warming up at the Dogs, Cats And Apples wall there were very few climbers around since it was early Friday morning. James told us about a must-do line a little further along which was rumoured to be one of the best in the Blueys.  So we ventured onwards towards the Thrustblock area and the SSCC4 with its unique and challenging aretes. By late afternoon when the sun eventually hit the crag we decided to take it easy on day one and check into our house in Blackheath. Meanwhile Jack had arrived and Meg and Cameron had gone to the XXXX bouldering spot to send one of the premier problems there. Congratulations on sending Meaty Bites V9*** Cameron. Later that night Tullia, Janeya and Will and Hamish all arrived to start the celebration.

Day1: One of the best warmup walls at Porters Pass is probably Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall.

So said the King 21**  Pretty easy mostly until you hit the confounding crux where the line curves to the left, find the hidden crimp up high and the undercling and you should be fine. Remember to trust your feet.
Nylon Happy 22*** very distinct line of broken features and crack weaving its way skyward. Amazing moves with several solutions. Excellent.

Further along the tourist bath is the remarkable Thrustblock area, with arguably one of the most amazing long sport lines in the mountains. It’s a big call but check it out for yourself.

The Mind Boggles 23*** 40m Not sure what to say about this line? Its long with ever move in the climbing manual. It moves you through the initial slab to vertical middle and final steep surprise backage. Is has everything and then some more. Bring a least 18 quickdraws and rethread on the way down.

The final crag at Porters Pass is SSCC4. It has one of the most remarkable aretes in the mountains:

Utopia 29***  Roman, Chris and James working hard on this fine jewel of the mountains.

Bareback 23*** (2 pitches) it was getting late so we only did pitch one. Old school classic with a trad style of climbing – corner stemming, arete and a final steep headwall with crimps. Classic climbing and it is only the beginning, I will have to come back for pitch 2.

Day 2: started a little late while we enjoyed the house with our Shakti Acupressure Mat to get ready for a big day amidst the eucalyptus sandstone. Sharon Stone with its sporty steepness was the crag of choice. Roman, Louise, Jack, Meg, Janeya and Will warmed up at Jimmy Cliff before joining Tullia, Alex, James, Roman, Chris and Hamish at the steeper crags just across the valley. It was surprising cool that morning and friction was at a premium, leading us to some nice sends throughout the day.

Jimmy cliff
Leakage 18** is a particularly nice warm-up and great for toprope as well. Some nice ascent by Janeya, Meg, Jake and Louise.
Repeat of Rudolf the bloody Reindeer 23*** thin section up high felt easy this time.

Sharon Stone
Year of the gun 25*** Excellent sent by Will
There is a wasp on my banana 27*** Nice send by James
Casino 31**  Essentially a boulder problem across a massive roof on ridiculous holds. Tricky rope length and one very long move. Roman and Alex.
Oliver Stone
Find The Positive 23*** great steep line with longish moves between good holds.
Age Against the Machine 26***  Very impressive flash by Hamish.                                                                                                

Evening shades approached all too quickly and as the wind picket up a bit, the temperature felt more winter than summer. It was time to head for the pub or prepare dinner at the house. After some relaxation the energy suddenly returned and there was talk of a night-time session. It was time to explore one more magical place that had been in the back of our minds for a long time. Climbing at Mount York has been a mainstay for decades but we have never bouldered there before. Backing the car with all the pads we could muster we headed out into the twilight and discovered the magical Wolf cave.

Mount York bouldering: Wolf cave

First day on the job V3*** Only one move really but quite hard. Couldn’t commit to the high foot and locking of my left hand. It took a few goes. Straight forward hard boulder move.

Black Town Pinch*** V7

Gage Wolf V9*** Roman onsight

Big move to crimp V3*** The name says it all really, another straightforward boulder move: hands on jug high right heel and reach to the crimp – match and do a big move to the final jug. Intimidating in the dark and felt hard.

Big Move from Jug V4 so far. Nice send by Tulia. Grab the jug and meat rap it, paste your feet high and reach like hell to an intermediate rail pump to good crimp and jug.  Felt like I would dislocate my shoulder so I left it to the strong girls.

Wolfgang Low V5 Meg,Tulia,Roman amazing crimp rails to start with tricky traverse over bulge, high heel and jugs.

Perplex City V12 crazy dyno with scary heel – Roman gave it some beans.

Eventually when the light of the torches began to dim and the realisation of another day of climbing the next day kicked in we decided to call it quits and head back to the warmth of our house. Beneath the star-spangled firmament we returned through darkness. The final day was just a faint whisper Louise and Roman heard about when they were driving back to Sydney.  Rarely has a weekend been spent with better company.

Roman 2022

Go here for more photos:  HERE