Like many a good thing in life - they take time. Days weeks and often years may pass before the opportunity arises to realise that longing from a long time ago. Perhaps more by chance then planning? Such was the dream of yonder to visit Frog Buttress. Born many a year ago, but kept in the back of our minds for far too long. One day sure it will happen, yet we do not know how. Well circumstances eventually conspired and the dream became reality or perhaps better. Sharp lines against blue skies with splitters in between. What could be better - for the meaning of life however brief is to give life meaning.
Day 1 was our chance to get used to some of the more moderate lines, reaquaint we trad gear and try squeezing various body parts into all types of fissures.
Clockwork Orange corner 13* tough crux for our first climb and still somewhat scared from placing gear. 4 pieces at the crux may have been a bit too much but you never know.
Orchid alley 14* Somewhat easier varied climbing along a serious of cracks with good stances to place gear. Great warmup and to same belay as Clockwork.
Electronic flag direct start 18***Short intense layback corner for the 18, followed by beautiful handjam for 17 and the 15 to the top. Great variety and 45 meters of fun.
Smoked banana 17** Excellent crack climbing to a stance before the roof. Grab the choke stones, pull yourself up and hope the hold. Try to wedge yourself into the chimney crux. Hard to get in but keep squeezing upward until the chimney gets wider. Inser your hold body and worm your way upward. Exasperatingly mesmerising and great for small people. Big blokes beware.
Day2 We were ready for something a little more refined today after our pub meal at the local brewery.
Blood sweat and tears 17* Most of the easier warmup lines on the Northern end were busy so starting with a climb called "Blood Sweat and Tears" probably was not the smartest idea. In a nutshell this is a flaring offwidth nightmare of 40meter length. The guide says this: "infamous long cavernous groove that keeps on dealing out whippers," and "trench warfare at its very best, a memorable, character building old school classic. But then again who reads descriptions. I will not forget this battle for a very long time.
Castor 17* Great lead by Will with a nice mantle crux and big gear, take at least a number 5.
Liquid laughter layback 17* We used this nice crack to get to the belay of Impulse, great warmup and good gear.
Impulse 24*** The sporty classic on trad gear, short but with tough moves. I found the moves not too bad, until I tried to place some gear on this micro nut classic. Its a whole new headgame.
Materialistic Prostitution 16** We saved the best for last. Just when the crag turned orange, the light faded and we were the last people at the crag we safed this pure short jam test piece to see if we could really crack clime. Well the answer is simple - no not really! If this is an easy introduction we better go back to the drawing board LOL. Last one of the day in the golden afterglow.
Day3: We got up early for a quick half day before our flight back. Went to the Cafe for a nice early bacon and egg role and loads of coffee in front of the fireplace. Then headed straight for the crag left side. Parking lot was full with campers. Sunday and Froggy was busy. Intention was to go to the end of the South side and warm up, but around a corner a coupled just finished and seeing us look, asked if we want to get on it. We asked what is it? The rest is history. It was The Gladiator (18***) and after some hesitation we decided why waste time with a warm-up let's just get down to business and be done with it.
What a line, it pushed us right to the limit and just a little beyond. Pure handjams at the crux just when you got tired after some sustained introduction. First solid falls on gear and we started to feel a little alive. Working the line revealed so many intricacies until the hands couldn't take it any more - bruised and battered - and it was time to leave. One of the most memorable lines and making us come back one more time............ |
