Easter is one of these crazy times when coming up to the Blueys is a real sharing experience and one has to choose the climbing location with a sense of care. The environmental impact of large numbers of climbers is clearly visible and most car parks and campgrounds are usually filled to the brim. But there are spots where you can climb and still enjoy the solitary experience. Older crags receive less attention and on those busy weekends its well worth revisiting some of the crags from yesteryear. Roman wanted to take Fin on his first multipitch adventure so after a solid traning session in the Sushiclimber garage to brush up on some technical skills, we we drove past the crowds at Shipley and headed down the Megalong valley. James Bond is a very old crag rarely visited nowadays, but it has one of the best lower grade multipitch in the mountains, easily Rivaling Sweet Dream and providing the perfect training ground for multipitch climbing. Perfect belay stations for skill practise across two lower short pitches, comfortable belay platforms and double ring raps make for a very sercure and pleasant experience. This is followed by a third pitch up an easy soaring arete which ends up just below a gigantic twin roof system up high. Following the first three pitches of easy practise: it is now decision time. Are you ready to put all this practise into the final money pitch waiting high above as part of the graduation ceremony. This pitch has it all: a funnel with big holds breaches the first roof with a jug rest, then a couple of thin face moves - not too hard but just to keep you on your toes leads to a rest in a corner, the final roof is breached via an exposed step onto the arete with a few final ironstone jugs to the top panoramic belay ledge. From here two double 60meter ropes will bring you straight down to the bottom but take extra care to bring the knot across the ledge since pulling the rope can be quite tricky. Alternatively a shorter rap is possible to one of the belay stations below if you do the whole route with a single. The setting is magnificient in the warm autumn sun, not too hot, but just mild enough with panoramic views of the Megalong Valley beyond. Ryan came by for a visit and there was just enough sun to check out the sport climbing and slab crag on the way back before it was time for the Barramundi special at Blackheath.
The next day was Easter Sunday and we had to be diligent in our crag selection again. Jack was also in the mountains and he suggested Zap crag for another lesser known classic alternative. The car park was full when we got there but it was all Jack's mates so we decided to join them for a romp on the steep side.
Mr.McGlue 18** warm up arete at lower Zap
Just warming up 17** the nice slab climb just above lower Zap.
High tension 25***
Jug Buzz 22*** still feels amazing - one of the best warmups around if you know the moves. Another lap and still so nice.
Hot Pump action Baby 21* First climb of the day and some of the moves felt desparate, with hard start and several thought-provoking sections, never really lets you fully relax and also has a sting in the tail. Add a few more bolts and call it 23 and it would be a mega classic.
Since the inauguration of the sushiclimber chalet - climbing is now a lot more flexible than ever. |
