There is not much to say about this one! It is been in the back of my mind for a very long time. Always knocking - are you still paying attention, you know that I am still waiting for you - yes I am still here. Too many other objectives and grades to push but I always knew the day would come. I guess I saved this one for a special occasion when everything else could be sidelined and The Phoenix could finally be released and take center stage. Finally its time had come on one of the coldest days of the year, with rain forecast so there was a small window of opportunity - for the percect single line - nothing else. We set of at the perfect moment in time and headed towards Medlow Bath, this was not just a climb, it was an old school adventure - whatever that may be. The approach was horrendous, description too old, way markers long gone, paths burried under years of folliage and very few traces of climbers. It took us forever to find the right path after many wrong turns and dragging gear through rugged wet bush. But in the end we found the top descent ledge and the winter sun was just making its way around the Megalong valley walls, prefect because it was freezing and the rain clouds were still far away on the horizon. We needed to be quick since there was some cleaning to do on the way down. With few ascents the vegetation comes back quickly but we came prepared. 45 meters of rapping down a nearly vertical finger crack - easy to clean with the crack being mostly consistant finger size but with the occasional suprise package. With time running out quickly we started right away. The first leaning block arete was tricky without hands on the arete and just the handcrack running along the inside without many holds to cheat - layback time. A little crux bulge lead to the perfectly vertical finger crack about 10 meters straight with no cheating holds on the side, perfect hands with perfect 0.3, 0,4 and 0.5 Camelots to a little rest. Midway hanging tree for a sling then a few more meters of perfect hand size crack to a stands. Stell the nerves here where the overhang starts. Easy moves to the offwidth crux: no cheating holds - yuck. Chicken wings in - a knee wedge and the large no.5 camelot does not fit - ughhh. Luckily a hairline crack takes some micro-cams. Phew save again, through the offwidth and 5 meters of steep overhaning crack but with lots of jugs on the side for cheating. Finally at the top mayb 20 placements ? How long maybe 40 mintes, how knows who cares. It deserves the reputation and is probably/maybe one of the best adventure trad crackline in the mountains. It was worth the wait and I am looking forward to the next lap ...... |
