There are a few king lines in the mountains that have been brewing in the back of my mind for a long time. Being busy with getting fit and other mundane tasks like making a living and going to work usually gets in the way. This means to eventually give them the attention they deserve can take months or even years. But every once in a while the moment is just right and the stars aligned. This weekend mid-winter with cold conditions and faithful acolyte Dave in tow we made our way down Porters Pass along the Clifftop track towards the warm-up area: Fort Rock. It was cold and the crag was still in the shade so conditions were perfect.
Private Grunt (20*) Not the best warmup, originally graded 18 but with fewer holds the grade jumped up. Has one short crimp-sequence of about 4 moves that will wake you up.
F troop (22) probably the next best warm-up on this wall with mostly jugs and good pockets.
Cheddar (22) the last climb to do for me on this wall. Some thin moves down lower to a horizontal break with a jug mantle above. The crux was a high right hand reach that I could not get to straight away. It took a second go and a little throw was the solution for me. Dave just danced up in in style.
It was past lunch now and we decided to head over to the Gateway where my dreamline was waiting. Dave wisely dissuaded me from taking the shortcut through the bush, which would have ended at a massive canyon drop-off. By the time we hit the Gateway the sun was warming the rock nicely (2pm onwards) and we decided to do another warmup. I warned Dave about the notorious warmup here but he had a go anyway:
Smooth and Crunchy (18**) maybe one of the best sandbags in the mountains. Lucky we had 3 proper warmups before this one. It was great fun to hear Dave complaining about the sharpness of the rock :)
The Amateur (24**) the line that has been waiting for me for a while. Primarily because it probably is the only thing I will be able to do here. Needless to say Dave and I sent in style. The crux was a short steep crimp section from a horizontal rest just over the bulge. The draws here are far to the left and clipping the second one can be very tricky. Skipping it and clipping higher from the jug made the difference for us.
Next Dimension (27**) Dave still had juice in the tank so talked me into getting one more flogging up this gorgeous orange overhanging jug-haul. Tom O'Halloran has a video on it and calls it "the" best Blue Mountains sandbag: Next Dimension
The day ended like all cold climbing days should do: with Mulled wine and a Parmi :)
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