The fictional city of Atlantis does exist after all, at least as far as one of the many craglets littered around the Blue Mountains is concerned. One of the earlier Sport climbing areas it has undergone a long period of dormancy, but the age of thawing began during the enigmatic Covid Period when a vast rebolting effort and some house-keeping brought this amazing area back into the limelight of modern sport climbing. Nicely furbished with ring-bolts throughout, the area features a series of ledges that require familiarity with exposure from the very start. Guideropes are equipped throughout so there is plenty of safety, but care must be taken to make safety a priority as a fall from the ledges would facility a swift meeting with our makers. Access steel rungs provide easy climbing to a variety of platforms for the vertically challenged and the views of the canyon below are panoramic. The crag is well hidden in the depths of nowhere, so you will find plenty of tranquility and only you will only hear the echo of your own screams - of joy of course :)
This time Breana, Rob and Roman all went there for the first time and we explored the right hand side of the area due to its ease of access and spacious lunch ledge. The left hand side is a little more challenging and can easily be accessed from the same ledge via the massive cave on the left side facing in. Equally impressive as the nearby Hat Hill Crag, Atlantis right side features a number of lines with a distinct roof crossing crux as the primary feature.
We began with customary introduction on the lower level routes:
Driving the Fat Farang (20*) arguably the best warm up route here before climbing up to the ledge. tough little pocket sequence to start when you are not warmed up and then pleasant climbing above.
Wingman Anytime (21*) supposed to be the most popular route here and it shows. the rock is limestone like and the glassiness of the holds reflects its popularity. Rare for the Blue Mountains with limestone like features and a tricky final crux. Bring your chalk.
Bullshit IceCream (22*) Nice reachy boulder problem start to rest under roof, crux roof crossing with direct line (high left jug with hard deadpoint) or easy jugs going left. Same grade but nice variations.
Twenty something (23**) Juggy start to hard rough crossing with a long reach to a good hold. From here to the anchors its easy if you can find the hidden hold.
Eurotic (22*) Hard start to big hueco, press into the undercling to reach high crimps. Another big roof crossing but easily navigated via the jugs on the right arete. Felt a little bit like cheating to go right but the direct line would be much harder. You be the judge.
Greg's Route (22) Tough undercling boulder problem with a nice heel hook solutions thanks to Rob. From the heelhock right hand to sharp pocket, lock it off and reach high to good left hand slot. Deadpoint to good jugs. After this V5ish intro, the route character changes to nice climbing above.
Angry Angus (22) Bouldery start with hard to establish pinch rail, reach to the crimp - maybe match the crimp, intermediate pocket to sidepull and throw for massive jug. Also v5ish start and the long traverse to a series of corners with long reachy moves.
With the Westerlies blowing above we were well protected beneath the canyon rim and the early spring heat in August was soon engulfed by the penumbra of the shade. We were a long way from anywhere and only the afterglow of the evening sun coaxed us out of the shadows into the light.
A beer at the Gardeners popped us back into reality. |
