It appears that Friday is a good time to catch up with the vanlifers in the Blueys. As the main season is about to begin, the campgrounds are getting a little busier and lots of keen climbers bring plenty of stoke to the mountains. Breana was available for another Friday climbing session and James also joined us again. They brought along Pat from Victoria who joined us for a day at Hartley Vale. With probably the best (shortest) approach in the Blueys, the smallish crag still features a great selection of old-school classics. The canyon is narrow with lots of potential and I was pleasantly suprised to find ringbolts throughout.
Electrostatic Axila (17***) surely should be three stars with this much variety. Solid Crack to start of with but also a lot of adjacent jugs, then a little roof boulder exit to the final slab moves. Has a bit of everything. Excellent.
Something with Spiders (21***) Short but surprisingly steep, big moves between good holds with one committing moves to keep you on your toes.
Hitlesslist (23***) It would defintitely not go without the old school gym hold glued on to the start crux. Its still a very big start move which could be the crux for many ascentionist so it does NOT make it any easier - just possible. The rest is classic old school climbing, starting with a boulder traverse left to an ironstone arete move, that leads to a nice reset rest. A challenging traverse move is next to another rest that leads to the final right-trending traverse and thin crux to the top. The full package and you will have to work hard for this old-school classic.
Orange Slice (25***) Decribtion says "boulder low crux" and yes the start feels absolutely desperate. We tried a number of different variations and got close but could not find a "nice" start sequence. We tried the undercling far right (used in the 27 start) and traverse left to the good undercling. Desperate climbing. Forgetting the start boulder you still earn the 25 grade for the rest of the 90percent climbing. After the start boulder the first crux is a little left hand low sidepull/undercling to a high right-hand gaston, push with your feet to a good edge and adjacent jugish hold. Hard clip followed by desparate left hand-pinch grip to good jug. Next is a flexibility test to the first big jug (I stabbed my left foot far a cross for a drop knee to reach the jug). From the first to the second massive jug (with a nice hand jam for rest). Shake out and this is where it gets spicy again. Another boulder problem awaits through the "handle bar" to a hard three finger hold up high. Then easy jugs to the anchor, its the full mounty all the way even if you can not do the start. Amazing moves on amazing holds.
Bryzance (26***) Pat tried hard on this one and eventually worked out all the moves. Think of this one as an elaborate puzzle with hand and foot positions dependant on micro-beta. Layback start leads to change in direction to opposite layback - very bouldery sequence through first bolt. Then even worse layback crux on the other side through second bolt. Final crux corner to high jug and the hard part is over. A couple more moves via fingerlocks and pockets to the jug - not hard but very pumpy. Short but desperate.
Arachnid (21**) about 200 meters along the wall from the main area, the first half is mainly an old school face climb with some execellent thin edges to the half way mark with a distinct steep slab feeling. The second half is steeper with bigger holds. Also about twice as long as the main wall so a nice diversion from the old school style.
Just opposite the valley is a brilliant cliff line for exploring with a sinle line developed as a mixed route. Known as Fils et Pere 17*** ('Father and Son' on Gregs Wall) this routes has three stars and is waiting for our visit. As per tradition we met Louise and all congrated at the Gardener's Inn to challenge our luck with the daily rafle.
