Another Friday outing without crowds and perfect conditions. The Westerly was just blowing gently enough to keep the rock cool from the early intense Sping sunshine. Breana was keen on giving Junket Pumper a try so we headed for the Glen to see how the wind is blowing in the Gorge below. To our suprise the sunshine was perfect in combination with the wind. Bre brought James along from Colorado and James brought Maggie along also from Colorado and we all hung out in the glorious rock platform below one of the Blueys classics.
Junket Pumper (24***). Quite nice as a warmup - until you hit the crux boulder problem, Ouchy. Yet another failed retroflash attempt for me. I am clocking up quite a few repeats on this one but it never gets old with nearly perfect moves. Bre came super close and ended up chalking up on the two crux crimpers before the deadpoint crux. Double ouch! James worked out the sequence and also came within a whisker.
Running of the Bowels (25**) Great climbing with an unfortunate name. Always wanted to try this one being the easiest route amongst massive grades. Quite involved starting with ascending the free hanging log to a hanging belay that gets you through a little bit of the jungle. Two jugs to get you started with a massive move through the roof. Very techy and crux start. I locked in my left heel and kept my right hand on the jug. Reaching as far as I could with my left hand over to a series of crimp on the "right" (I ignored the jug on the left because it was too far for me) I bumped three times to the good part on maximum stretch. Release the heel and hold the swing on two jugs. Massive move but it kept going. The holds get quite big from here but the moves are still solid and far apart so you are not done yet and need to keep moving through some impressive steepness. A little traverse to the anchor at the end with a final reachy move to a good ledge. Amazing and deserves more ascends - if you like massive roofs with big holds.
After everyone did their laps on Junket Pumper we relocated out of the winds to a rarely visited place at the very end of the "normal" circuit. Well hidden past Wave wall lies Woodpecker Wall which gets few visits and has arguably some of the better mid-grade routes in the whole Glen and WaveWall combined. It definitely felt like a distinct new crag by itself.
Woodpecker (22***) Classic pocket starting boulder problem, then a series of deadpoints to good rails but far apart, I counted 5 deadpoints in a row until the thank God jug halfway up the route. I was relieved when the top half started to ease off and I could relax a little.
Something Void (**) Most left hand of the routes with dramatic views of Shipley. Also the longest route here with good jugs through steep arete prow. But there a couple of hidden cruxes nevertheless. The gast-on midway is a little spicy the there is a crimp sequence that leads out of the steepness into the vertical face above.
The tank was starting to run low on fuel a bit, but Bre was keen on one more so why not.
Two little boys (22**) same crux start as Woodpecker but then the climb leads rightward in a bug sweeping arch. Mostly straight forward with one very hard razor crimp matching sequence to a good jug. It will make you scream with delight. Easy climbing to the top.
After this last effort which started to feel a little desparate when the sky turned crimson, it was time for our reward and after picking up Louise, we all went to the pub with Maggie, James, Bre and Jack turned up as well. Great day to be repeated shortly. |
