After a week of rain, we were keen to head up to the Blueys again and Friday is always a perfect climbing opportunity with the local community in full swing. Pat, James and Maggie with a few friends in tow all joined us at Shipley Carpark for a day at Porters Pass. Throughout the day it was a smorgashboard of the best climbs across all the Porters Pass craglets. As one of the most diverse climbing areas, Porters Pass features an ecclectiv mix of craglets neatly lined up side by side and accessible via a short walk between them. There is something for all types of rock connoisseur, from slabs to roofs and from aretes to corners you will defintely find something to your liking. We tried to chose one of each for the day and where not disappointed.
1) Dog Cats and Apples Wall
Flirting with a Spanish Dance (23***) I thought this was one of the warm-ups but they were further to the right :(
Really nice grade 20 climbing to the rooflet nevertheless, then a thin serious of crimps across the roof with tricky foot placement.
Powerbra Range (19***) finally the warm-up I was after Phew. Felt tough for 19? and the roof move is nails.
Nice Vice Baby (20***) probably the best warmup here with super stylish rock down low. then a little slap section just before the confounding roof move. The holds are all there, you just have to find them.
2) SSCC4 area
Hazard Reduction (25***) this is why we came! Mega mixed route with one of the most exposed positions in the mountains. Easy blocky climbing on jugs to semi-rest just before roof. A little chossy here, but easy and stable. Mega jugs through the roof - use long draws. Put your leg in the cafe at the end of the roof for a little shake out. Mega undercling jug to a rounded sidepull hold on the arete. Second ring is impossible to clip, but should be okay. I put it on by high-stepping off a sling. Reach out with your right hand to line of sidepulls out on the right. Tricky feet for a few moves to the "handle bar" hold. Arete crux is the first few moves and then glorious jugs to the top. Amazing with buckets of exposure up a sublime arete.
3) Chasing Amy Wall
Spread'em baby (22***) Major long book corner feature for stemming practise. Mostly easy but with excellent crux move in the middle.
Cutopia (22***) sustained slab with two major crux sequences. Get your tips ready.
4)La La Land Area
Shocking Pocket Monster (22***) Corner with crack running through it -0 mostly laybacking with bad feet. High hidden pocket to finish first hard half of the climb, then easy jugging to the anchor. overall very nice.
There was only Pat and Roman left at the end and we were completely cooked by 15:30 early afternoon. The tank was pretty empty and we had climbed pretty much non-stop. So we called it a little earlier than usual and headed back up the trail in full daylight. How unusual.......... |
