Another new crag for us in the astonishing variety of Blueys crags. After so many years you might be inclined to think you have seen it all, but not so, there is still more than you can even imagine. The Noisy Place is one such crag that has flown under the radar for way too long. James put it on my radar when he recommended Die Fix Die to me a few months ago. At first, I just saw a picture of the line, I was hooked and it has stayed with me ever since. It is one of those aesthetic lines that imprint on you imagination and just won't leave your mindscape, like an aspiration that needed an escape hatch from your unconscious mind. Next step was to mention it to Bre so I could recruit somebody to come with me. Several months of sport climbing and sending projects later, the image of the cragline returned. We talked about it a little more and finally late October we decided to pay a visit to this rarely visited craglet in the wide expanse that is Mount York.
The crunched Dog and the Ducati (14*) Great warmup corner crack right next to the must do line. Why Not?
Die Fox Die (22***) Would love to know where the name comes from? An old Mark Baker (aka The Red Skipper, whom I know well) route from the 1990s, it is a striking cliff splitting crack. I must confess that I thought it looked easy when I first saw it in the flesh so to speak. I was very wrong. The size for me with my stubby sausage fingers is rattly fingers - mostly slightly to big through the crux but ringlocks work well. If you are a purist this crack is hard - I note that Jacques Beaudoin has done a clean ascent using the crack only. Impressive, I think this would amp the difficult up significantly. For mere mortals like me, using the features to the side of the crack is absolutely crucial. Sidenote there appears to be an "enhanced" pocket out to the left at the bottom cruck to establish above the first little rooflet. It is not necessary and we avoided it. The line is superb with the middle section being the crux: two fairly hard crux sequences, with an okay start and finish section. I was keen to try to onsight the line but realised pretty quickly that I would have to learn the moves first. I took Bre and me three shots to send the crack with the gear in place. Placing the gear for the real redpoint would make the line a lot harder as the climbs felt quite desparate. I will do some more training and will be back. One of the best solid cracks in the Blueys for sure.
Blue Blistering Barnacles (21***) Excellent roof crossing with balancy arete, brilliant. Good bolting with a few balancy move. The handle bar hold is still there and holding well. Loved this climb.
Cat Scratch Fever (22**) It has been a while since I have done a mixed line. Bre put on all the gear and worked out the credit card crux move. Good holds at the bottom through the trad section (we used smallish cams in the breaks). Reach a horizontal break with good holds and clip the first bolt. The obvious large pocket is not as good as it looks from the bottom but it works really well as an undercling for the following crux. Left hand slopey but descent hold, use undercling pocket to gain credit card up high with your right hand and step up strenuously with your left foot to gain high complex hold. Crux done but keep it together for a few more hardish moves. My grade suggestion is 24. Fingertips where already gone from Die Fix Die but enjoyed the moves.
Doigte le trou (24**) Beautiful orange face best reserved for tall people. Two very reachy cruxes one at the bottom (from a massive undercling, or you might be able to lock of the credit card crimp rail - but had no skin left) and one at the top with the amazing two finger pockets. Me and Jo played on the moves for a while and since we are both vertically challenges - deadpoints are the only option. Love the moves though and would suggest 25/26 for the clean send).
It is late spring and the sun swung around about 2 o'clock. Great little hidden face beside a creek that had a large number of juicy boulders around it. I might have to come back with a brush some day. There seems to be so much more here......
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