It has been a long time since Will was able to break away and join us in the mountains for a day of unadulterated climbing. The stars aligned with perfect weather, rock conditions and friction. We decided to try something different and explore an area that is rarely visited, fairly remote with medium grades to get some milage in for Will.
Sooty Crag was our choice, well past the Sunbath area in Medlow bath, down the old Valley Farm track where every rock step appeared to bear the pickaxe scars of convict laborers from yesteryear. Descending deep into the Megalong valley we became disoriented quickly on the steep track down, but realised before long that the cliff track was high above the valley floor, right where the valley opened up to the Megalong tea rooms. We past several ladders until we reached the bottom track leading along several clifflines with distinct crags: Coloseum, Valley farm. Still further and far beyond the trail we moved past a huge amphitheater with its own waterfall until we arrived at Sooty crag. Will and I arrived early and got to work, but we were quickly followed by Bre with Joe and Tim joining us for a day at the rock.
Abbey Road (18**) This amazing natural flake line has a complicated history: This landmark right facing bolted flake crack is the best warm-up at the crag. Originally climbed on natural gear in 1980 and accidentally retrobolted in 2003 (where is was named Chimera). It is no giveaway and climbing it on lead would make a three star classic. The description and comments add to the mystique: 'a bit run-out,' a little insecure at times, and "probably the best 18 out there." See for yourself, but take care we had a little bit of drama on this route. Following Bre's warm-up lead, Tim attempted to follow on lead with the gear in place. By his own account he got pumped on the top, downclimbed to the bolt, but then decided to climb upward again high above the last bolt. When he pealed off the rock his fall was long and he hit his ankle on the way down. It swelled up dramatically and we hiked to the nearby cold creek to ease the swelling a bit. However, it was pretty bad by then and he could barely load his right foot. The way out was steep, long and arduous with two good legs! Will brought some voltaren, which helped a little and after strapping the ankle tight Tim began the long walk out by himself. He was very stoic about the whole experience and I look forward to our next session together.
Here is some more history of this amazing line: Accidental retro-bolting happened with Abbey Road (18) at Sooty Crag in the Blue Mtns. It was climbed by Rod Young and Ant Prehn in 1980 and "rediscovered", bolted and renamed Chimera in the early 2000's. It was a genuine mistake though and once it was known the original name/FA were restored (the bolts remain though).
(The nearby Young/Prehn corner crack Windy Row (16) was similarly rediscovered - but not bolted - and renamed Sooty for a while). Source.
Soo (19**) One of two great little warm-ups next to the imposing corner crack.
Windy Row (Sooty) 16***) perfect corner crack with laybacks, chimney and even some roof crossing. Great protection and good stance to relax. Perfect rap rings at the top thank you so much. I lugged my trad rack for this one a long way down and it was worth every meter of climbing.
Vulcan (22**) amazing arete with great moves and one heartbreaker boulder move. We skipped the bottom chimney section. I had a play on it and I believe it would still go at about 24ish despite the broken holds. Will found a nice crossover solution for the mid-route crux going right but you need to be tall. I went left instead with two low good hand pockets and high right foot. Desperate high crimp, pump to better sidepull and desperately stand up on your foot to reach the high jug. tough for the grade but the position and exposure are amazing.
Wildfire (24***) I was keen on the this three star route adjacent to the 22 arete. I skipped the chimney start hoping it would make the route about 23ish - I was wrong. Here is my breakdown of the climb after the chimney section: nice bottom moves to a large scoop jug for rest with moves in the 22/23 range and climbs really well. This is were the boulder problem awaits: undercling the scoop and reach two sharp crimps out left, reach for right hand side pull to establish. There is a series of high side pulls or gastons with the crux being to get your feet up high. This section felt extremely hard until you reach a decent little hold. I could not do the sequence because it was quite long and the next draw is a long way up. I escaped to the arete and climbed around the crux. The top section features more sustained hard climbing at about grade 24. All in all an amazing climb but in my opinion much harder than 24 even without the chimney start.
We decided to move away from Sooty crag and explore the long Valley Farm Cliff line on the way back up towards the Colosseum and Sunbath are. There was one striking arete high above the track that caught our eye.
Street Legal (22***) The line of the day/week/month. A sporty expeditionary undertaking on rope up a long winding arete with roof crossing and several scoops on immaculate rock. We used up Will's 60 meter rope and at least 12 quickdraws. The orange arete is clearly visible from the track below and you should not walk past it.
Bus Stop Boxer (19*) with Virgins with Rifles (19*) two separate climbs on top of each other with potential access from the walking track down at the halfway belay ledge (ringbolt to traverse in of the track). First pitch is not to be underestimated. Quite techy with buldges and smooth scopes, one undercut hard move of the ledge makes the crux. Wanted to do both but the first pitch pretty much emptied the tank and I forgot to bring bolt plates for the belay. Escaped to the walking track and brought up Will. Remember to bring at least three bolt plates for the anchor
Future climbs to explore: we were just too spent to try anything else but here are a few reasons for coming back another day:
Frankenstein (25**)
Running Gun Blues (21) with unknown history and no ascents. Will and I explored this trad line and were amazed by its quality.
Stole Valor (23**) Amazing with a perfect steep layback corner crack on trad gear to a nose at about 8meters. From here the climb features ring bolts soaring skyward through an immaculate huge face 35 meters long.
Pyrocumulus (22*) another amazing arete with tree ladder access.
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