In the between Christmas and New Years eve to 2025, lie the twilight remainders of 2024 – almost over for the year, but still a bit of heat left in the year for one more climbing trip and perhaps a last chance to polish of some left over projects! So once again we found the entire family with Fin in toe heading up to the Blackheath Climbing lodge to try and bury some old projects from the year that had past. And for good measure start some new ones to tackle in the coming year. Although the Blueys are the best venue to climb in summer - despite the heat - the conditions were surprisingly good for hard sport climbing. We spend our first day in the shade of the Adults Only cave with surprisingly good conditions. Since the cave was busy we spend some time warming up in Rod’s Ravine next door. This trip marks the end of a busy year climbing - lets keep going in 2025.
Red Sails (21**) or Two Nils (20*) hard to tell which route is which here but the grade is about the same with good rest for a great warmup. Watch the shale band at the start and always preclip the first moves. Looks choosy but its not.
Unknown (25**) Chris choose this route because it looked the best and we did not realise it was 25. Great moves with 23/4 moves most of the way but one distinct hard 25 crux. The undercling move across the lip to the left hand pocket is also quite hard. Then left hand locks off a good edge and right hand reaches a 8-10mm sharp edge. Locking the edge with a high left foot and reaching through to a good hold is the crux. I could not lock of this edge and I needed something for my right foot or my shoulder started to complain. After that there are five distinct deadpoint moves that are quite intimidating but also lots of fun. Great route deservers more attention and needs a much better name.
Red Sails Direct (22**) I set this one up for Fin but his rip started hurting from an old Jiu Jitsu injury. So Chris flashed it instead. After the burly roof crossing, I finally figured out the technical crux crimp move which I could not do several years ago. Nice line and pretty short.
Brain Haemorrhage (31***) Roman had a session on this a few weeks ago and nearly sent on the warm-up lap. He got his hands wrong in the pocket move and that was the end of the first try. He sent one hour later.
Way of All Flesh (26M)) a refresh lap for me to remember to moves. Felt so hard ☹
Pleasure of the Flesh (29***) one of the classics in the cave with a massive dyno crux and the finish on the way of all flesh. Chris worked out all the moves. Next time.
Blood Cloth (32) Roman still had juice in the tank and worked the moves on this link up: Bottom part climbs the crux of Brain Haemorrhage (31**) and top half links into the crux of BloodLine (31***).
There was time for a couple more on the way out when the heat was starting to drop a little and the blazing sun had cleared all the climbers of Little Trigger wall in the late afternoon:
Quirrell’s Quarrel (19**) nice long 30 meter line just before the main belay ledge with a ringbolt for the belayer. Fin sent in style with a busted rib.
Murky Flap (27**) Somehow Chris still had energy to sent this hard boulder problem. Gain high right-hand micro pocket, lock off hard, and cross through with your left hand to sloper. Then jugs to finish.
Day 2 started late with an early morning thunderstorm. By 10am it was hot and dry again and we headed out to Centennial Glen for day two of hard sport climbing. The car park was full as expected but we squeezed in anyway. A look at wave wall on the way down showed us the crowds lining up to climb the usual classics. Further down the Main Will at the Glen was completely empty. There was a strangly strong wind that kept the temperature down and the entire Jucket Pumper area was in the shade. For mid-summer conditions were unusually good.
Alpha Leather (32****) Roman decided to work the moves and refresh the beta on try number one. Much later try number two was amazingly close: he completed the first crux and clipped all the draws snatched the sidepull on the last crux move and fell off. Very close in summer conditions.
Junket Pumper (24***) the classic warmup here. Chris flashed and put up all the draws. Roman Senior manage his first retro-flash ever (after about +20 ascents). The pressure was on Fin and after a warm-up lap he surprised himself with sending in style. First 24 and first lead cleaning for Fin. Hurray.
Roof Raider (29**) Chris worked the moves on this super endurance test piece. The start crux is amazing and had its own 25 variation called Running of the Bowels. After completing the initial crux lots of jugs lead to a semi-rest on jugs in a corner. Then pumpy steepness to a final technical crimp crux with a massive dyno finish. Chris worked the moves, Roman Senior fought his way to the final crux (26ish) and Roman junior flashed the route. Note: Dan Rooney commented on the crag that he broke the crux right hand sidepull and the hold is much smaller now making the final crux even harder. Potentially 30 now?
That was the end of day two with a pup meal and some friends waiting at the Gardener’s Inn. We met James H. and Rod who was leaving for Perth. The parmi and beer taster better than ever. |
