Dave and Roman had another weekend of climbing to themselves and I suggested the Waterfall crag for some hard steepness, which was right up Dave’s alley. I had been there once before with Roman and Chris and it was time for another visit. Checking the archive from our last visit I realise that it was in 2020 and almost five years have passed since we explore the Waterfall area. Time really does stand still in the shadows of the escarpments.
After we headed down the wrong gully toward Mount Boyce we had to backtrack for a while to find the earlier fork in the road. We made some discoveries in that gully which are worth coming back for. See the video HERE of the amazing gully via-ferrata on the way to the Waterfall crag. There is not much in terms of warm-ups at this smallish crag and we followed the recommendation to warm up on
Pokahontas (24**) is recommended as the only half-decent warm-up here but it still felt somewhat nails.
Luft (first pitch 23***) I actually wanted to jump on Wasser (25) but missed the diagonal right hand traverse about half way up at the pinnacle and thus ended up doing Luft instead. Fantastic climbing on great rock. The crux move is the very first bouldery move of the deck. If you pull passed it you have a nice 22 and also another great but somewhat airy warm-up.
Spiderpuss (26***) Fantastic bouldery climbing up the iron rungs through a serious of tough boulder problems.
Noting that before you head down into the Jurassic gully with the via-ferrata down the massive chokestone, you get a good luck at the walls to the right side of Waterfall. This wall is referred to as Boyce Far Far South with some photos and descriptions of old lines on the crag.
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